Another pesky newb question

[Kratzer]

So I am having electrical problems- like not charging and voltage loss at higher rpms than lower- and have started ordering some parts....including a Honda R/R thanks to this place and a certain member with a hookup (which I feel is a good insurance policy even if the current one is ok). Anyway, I know the R/R is known to be a poor design. What about the stators? Are they bad by design? If I replace the R/R and start the bike, if it has a weak stator (low voltage), will it mess up the new R/R?

And is the suzuki diode a good replacement OEM or is there a better aftermarket part available?

I need to check the ac current off the stator for sure. 70-80 volts at 4000 RPM?

[tkent02]

So I am having electrical problems- like not charging and voltage loss at higher rpms than lower- and have started ordering some parts....including a Honda R/R thanks to this place and a certain member with a hookup (which I feel is a good insurance policy even if the current one is ok). Anyway, I know the R/R is known to be a poor design. What about the stators? Are they bad by design? If I replace the R/R and start the bike, if it has a weak stator (low voltage), will it mess up the new R/R?

And is the suzuki diode a good replacement OEM or is there a better aftermarket part available?

I need to check the ac current off the stator for sure. 70-80 volts at 4000 RPM?

Test the stator with the rest of the system disconnected. It's in the stator papers or a service manual, the stators are fine unless they get ruined by other bad components, poor wiring, heat, etc.

[twr1776]

Check all your wiring connections, grounding, and do the stator papers before you spend a lot of money on parts. The R/R normally goes bad first but until you test the entire system you will not know for sure what is bad and could spend some money on parts you did not need to.

[BassCliff]

Cooking with electrons!

Mr. Kratzer,

It's all in the Stator Papers. Basically there are two types of tests for the stator, an active test and 2 passive tests. They all involve disconnecting the stator from the rest of the charging system. One passive test is for continuity to ground (not good). Test for a short between ground (chassis) and all of the three stator legs. There should be no short to ground. Your meter should show infinite resistance. The other passive test is to check for resistance between the stator legs themselves. There should be a small resistance between each of the stator wires. The active test involves starting the bike and measuring the alternating current (AC volts) between the stator wires. Be sure to reference the Stator Papers and/or your manual for all the exact figures and recommendations.

Here's what my old stator looked like:


Notice three of the coils were fried. Two were on the same leg. Here is a picture of my old r/r on the left and the new one from Mr. duaneage on the right:



Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[TheCafeKid]

+5 on the Stator Papers. Will show/tell you just about anything you need to know about the charging systems on these bikes.

And as an aside, is it just me, or does everyone else auto-flashback to a ScoobyDoo Mysteries scene everytime someone says the word "PESKY"? hehehe

RooobyDOO!! :-D

[Kratzer]

Thanks guys. I'll keep you informed.