also, i called around today to find the brush kit for my bike. they all kept telling me it was discontinued. then one place said they will "superceed" the part number and something came up. but im a little sketchy. iv got a feeling its going to be for a 16v motor instead of the 8v. it cost 35 dollars. does anyone know where to get the right brushes in case the ones i bought arent right? thanks.
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gs1100L starter brushes
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beachbum3478
gs1100L starter brushes
well for the longest time i thought my battery was bad, because the bike would only crank over for a little then stop. well i went to start the bike today with jumper cables and it cranked then stopped. i was like wtf. if jumper cables wont start it then whats wrong. so i took the starter apart and found that the brushes for the positive side were ripped off. so i guess only one was attached which was causing the high resistance to crank it. when i replace the brushes do you guys think the bike will crank over easier?
also, i called around today to find the brush kit for my bike. they all kept telling me it was discontinued. then one place said they will "superceed" the part number and something came up. but im a little sketchy. iv got a feeling its going to be for a 16v motor instead of the 8v. it cost 35 dollars. does anyone know where to get the right brushes in case the ones i bought arent right? thanks.Tags: None
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Check out here http://www.stockers.com/1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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beachbum3478
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bakalorz
Originally posted by beachbum3478 View Postwell for the longest time i thought my battery was bad, because the bike would only crank over for a little then stop. well i went to start the bike today with jumper cables and it cranked then stopped. i was like wtf. if jumper cables wont start it then whats wrong. so i took the starter apart and found that the brushes for the positive side were ripped off. so i guess only one was attached which was causing the high resistance to crank it. when i replace the brushes do you guys think the bike will crank over easier?
also, i called around today to find the brush kit for my bike. they all kept telling me it was discontinued. then one place said they will "superceed" the part number and something came up. but im a little sketchy. iv got a feeling its going to be for a 16v motor instead of the 8v. it cost 35 dollars. does anyone know where to get the right brushes in case the ones i bought arent right? thanks.
$35 for brushes ... oh my gawd ... :shock:
When the alternator in my Toyota went out, the brushes were like $5
When the Toyota's airconditioner/heater fan went, they didn't sell brushes for it.
Only place I could find that sold just brushes was a vacum-cleaner repair place ... less than $3.00
If you can't find the "right" brushes, buy some that are oversize, they are very easy to file to the right size (but its VERY messy, its carbon powder)
Brush materials/composition vary somewhat, but they are more or less all similar. As long as you can make it mechanically fit/work, you can quite likely get away with the wrong ones.
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beachbum3478
well it also came with the metal and plasitc ring for the positive and negative side of the brushes too. haha yea theres no way i would pay 35 dollars just for the brushes with the 1 inch of wire on them. i was thinking of making my own brushes but i was afraid that they would crack and id probably just get frustrated.
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Forum LongTimerCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 19274
- Toronto, Canada
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostCheck out here http://www.stockers.com/
This is definitely the way to go.
You can order brushes alone or buy the plate, with brushes pre-mounted and ready to install.
Their prices for purchase and shipping are good, and service is excellent.
REMEMBER....
Before re-assembling the starter you MUST align the marks on the body and cap.Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'
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beachbum3478
uh oh, whats this align the marks on the body and cap? i noticed some notches on the body and cap, but they didnt really seem to match up with anything. i did a temp fix job and soldered the wire back to the brush and put the starter back together. i hooked it a battery and free spun the starter and it turned fine. does that mean i put it together right? thanks.
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