opinions on 'sort of' plug chop pic

[psyguy]

check this out

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

(i'm no carb expert, you really want to hear from some other guys on the forum - i think it pays to post a new thread every time you have one thing on your list sorted - so it's more focuse and easier for people to reply)

[psyguy]

She idles so sweetly at 850 to 900 rpm

you may want to check your service manual for the correct rpm idle
too low and the oil pump doesnt deliver enough lubrication where its needed
(850rpm would be your very bottom line, i would think)

[chef1366]

Take a pic of the plugs from the top so I can see the electrode and the head range on the threads.

[Nessism]

If the air jet is larger than stock won't that make the bike run leaner? Not sure if that's the way you want to go but stock usually is best for a stock bike.

[chef1366]

If the air jet is larger than stock won't that make the bike run leaner? Not sure if that's the way you want to go but stock usually is best for a stock bike.

True. The pilot air jet goes directly to the pilot jet where it mixes the fuel and air. Then the premixed air and fuel goes through the idle mixture screws. The bigger the pilot air jet the more fuel is required. No mods means you need to go back to stock.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

It's late so I just quickly glanced over the posts.
Plug pics are always hard to trust. They look a bit lean to me too. Not sure what the first (#1?) is saying but it's darker. I see some uneven colors.
The bike is stock so be CERTAIN you re-install the factory jetting before doing anything else, unless you live in an elevation that would warrant a change. Stock pilots, air jets, mains, needle position, etc.
Then, be sure the bike is in basic tune. It's some work but it should be done. Check compression, valve clearances, solid/clean electrical connections throughout, battery voltage, ignition timing, vacuum tool synch, clean carbs with float levels verified, no intake leaks, good fuel flow and gas tank venting. If you pass on checking ANYTHING above, it may cost you more time in the long run. Older bikes need a complete maintenance check first before any testing. If you feel the voltage or spark quality is poor/incorrect, then there are several posts at this site to help you test for this.
The most important thing I see in your posts is the jetting isn't stock.
The other thing is if you want to test the plugs for correct mixtures, you need to test/chop off and read the plugs correctly. Full throttle for the mains, 1/3 to 1/2 for the jet needles and minimal throttle (under 1/5) works for the pilot circuit. Each jetting circuit regulates a different throttle position range so you must test accordingly.

[Colin Green]

check this out

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

(i'm no carb expert, you really want to hear from some other guys on the forum - i think it pays to post a new thread every time you have one thing on your list sorted - so it's more focuse and easier for people to reply)

you may want to check your service manual for the correct rpm idle
too low and the oil pump doesnt deliver enough lubrication where its needed
(850rpm would be your very bottom line, i would think)

Thanks, I have read it before. It is a very valid and timely post to remind me that I have a Loooooong way to go yet b4 I'm finished with the carb Idle should be (for 81 models onwards) 1050 +/- 100. Will set at 1000 rpm. ((( Edit.. just read it again with a much better appreciation for what it means.... It's very interesting... Thanks)))))

Take a pic of the plugs from the top so I can see the electrode and the head range on the threads.

Done. Sorry but the firing order is messed up now. Previous pick was left to right - 1 to 4.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg305/flyingcrocodile46/IMG_0010.jpg

Sounds like analysis of these pics might be a waste of time as no "chop" was involved #-o. Thanks for your interest. Hope you get your own buddy sorted.... I'm starting to see that they are near as high a maintenance as wives... [-o<

If the air jet is larger than stock won't that make the bike run leaner? Not sure if that's the way you want to go but stock usually is best for a stock bike.

Cheers.. Doubtless you are right. As that was my fear .. It's just as well that I'm optimistic about how much more I will enjoy her when she's all preened and pampered.

Any suggestions as to where to go? There are carb kits fairly regularly on ebay for $75 US (I hear they are not so good) but I only want the pilot air jets.

True. The pilot air jet goes directly to the pilot jet where it mixes the fuel and air. Then the premixed air and fuel goes through the idle mixture screws. The bigger the pilot air jet the more fuel is required. No mods means you need to go back to stock.

I did think about ordering those carb kits rather than the O rings, before I did the carbs, though a gain would have required my follow through in checking the B***dy things

It's late so I just quickly glanced over the posts.
Plug pics are always hard to trust. They look a bit lean to me too. Not sure what the first (#1?) is saying but it's darker. I see some uneven colors.
The bike is stock so be CERTAIN you re-install the factory jetting before doing anything else, unless you live in an elevation that would warrant a change. Stock pilots, air jets, mains, needle position, etc.
Then, be sure the bike is in basic tune. It's some work but it should be done. Check compression, valve clearances, solid/clean electrical connections throughout, battery voltage, ignition timing, vacuum tool synch, clean carbs with float levels verified, no intake leaks, good fuel flow and gas tank venting. If you pass on checking ANYTHING above, it may cost you more time in the long run. Older bikes need a complete maintenance check first before any testing. If you feel the voltage or spark quality is poor/incorrect, then there are several posts at this site to help you test for this.
The most important thing I see in your posts is the jetting isn't stock.
The other thing is if you want to test the plugs for correct mixtures, you need to test/chop off and read the plugs correctly. Full throttle for the mains, 1/3 to 1/2 for the jet needles and minimal throttle (under 1/5) works for the pilot circuit. Each jetting circuit regulates a different throttle position range so you must test accordingly.

I haven't got the tools/gauges/timing lights etc to check compression, adjust valve clearances or ignition timing

Will do the clean of electrical connections as I do the planned electronic part replacement/tests. Will test Battery on my Optimate and charge voltage with my multimeter. I've done the carb clean and O-rings (incl to engine intake boots) but need to swap out the pilot air jets. (yet to source and order) might have to pull them back out to check the needle jet height and carb floats (which were neglected when I stripped them . Did the WD40 spray check for air leaks and didn't pick anything up. I have just sorted the fuel flow. Have checked the tank venting by removing cap and also switching petcock to prime with no discernible change in performance, so I'm assuming that the tank venting is ok??. Will order jets when I find a supplier... (I daren't support the local Suzuki dealer they have no interest in bikes over 10 years old, won't work on them, are as helpful as a boil on a roid and seem to charge 2 to 4 times the value of a fair price).

I will look at the plug chop link I was supplied earlier and have booked her in to a local Kawasaki dealer (Spectrum Motorcycles) who seem to have a good reputation. I will have to haul arse and order the jets so she's ready to go in for her compression test, valve check, carb sync and timing on the 31st. I suppose I should source and order a valve cover gasket.

Any suggestions for an on line supplier of Gasket and Jets would be appreciated. ($ less important than speed of service and quality)

Thanks to all you guys for taking the time to pass on your advice.

Regards

Colin

[Zooks]

I bought jets and gaskets off this guy. He's a Kiwi and was very helpful.

http://stores.ebay.com.au/SMEBIKE_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm

[Colin Green]

I bought jets and gaskets off this guy. He's a Kiwi and was very helpful.

http://stores.ebay.com.au/SMEBIKE_W0...Q3amesstQQtZkm

Thanks Zooks

[psyguy]

I will look at the plug chop link I was supplied earlier and have booked her in to a local Kawasaki dealer (Spectrum Motorcycles) who seem to have a good reputation. I will have to haul arse and order the jets so she's ready to go in for her compression test, valve check, carb sync and timing on the 31st. I suppose I should source and order a valve cover gasket.

Any suggestions for an on line supplier of Gasket and Jets would be appreciated. ($ less important than speed of service and quality)

or you can ask me to lend you the compression tester, (and if it's an 8 valve engine?) shim bucket depressing tool and feeler gauges, if you're keen on DIY?
saves poor people at Spectrum some work 8-[
and i get to be a nice gs guy :-D


www.bikebandit.com are reasonably fast

[psyguy]

that link Zooks gave you, i've heard good things about the "nikau" guy, too

[Colin Green]

or you can ask me to lend you the compression tester, (and if it's an 8 valve engine?) shim bucket depressing tool and feeler gauges, if you're keen on DIY?
saves poor people at Spectrum some work 8-[
and i get to be a nice gs guy :-D


www.bikebandit.com are reasonably fast

You're already a "nice GS guy" I would (hassle factor aside) prefer to do as much of the work as I can, so 'yes' I would appreciate the loan of the tools. Where do I go to find a suitable selection of shims?

I'm waiting for Nikau to reply to my email but will send Bike bandit an enquiry. Cheers

[psyguy]

Where do I go to find a suitable selection of shims?

i would first figure out what can be swapped "internally" and what other sizes you need
"steve" has a handy spreadsheet file to do the maths for you, or it's "pen an' paper"

theres a "shim swap thread" going on here where members exchange shims
i have 1 or 2 to swap as well
bike wreckers in nz are likely to have some
as usual, www.z1enterprises is a good source

used shims are fine, no need to buy new

[Colin Green]

that link Zooks gave you, i've heard good things about the "nikau" guy, too

I'll wait for a response from Nikau. Bike bandit wanted $64 US for 2 gaskets and 4 jets (OK) but wanted $79US for shipping (not OK)

[Steve]

i would first figure out what can be swapped "internally" and what other sizes you need
"steve" has a handy spreadsheet file to do the maths for you, or it's "pen an' paper"

Send me an e-mail, I will send the spreadsheet in reply. 8-[

.