Three Red wires & R/R installation

[dardoonk]

I have a 6 wire "Dunnaege" brand R&R to reinstall on my 77 GS750
I have problems figuring out what to do with the extra red wires.

YELLOW - got that, they're for the stator
GREEN - got it, it goes to the Neg battery terminal
BLACK - must be the sensor, I hooked it to an Orange wire beside the senor for my Dyna ignition.

Now it comes to the red wire - This is the one coming from the regulator-- I presume this one is the one everyone attaches to the battery, but that leaves me with three RED wires coming from the wire harness that have no where to go.

Red wire #1 has a female bullet connector and comes down from the harness just in front of the battery box.
Red wire #2 has a male bullet connector and comes out of the harness just behind the battery box right with the two "extra" connectors that aren't used after tossing the stock R&R units.
Red wire #3 is has a female connection and is hard wired into the POS cable right at the starter soloniod.

Problem is: How do I connect these three wires? I figured #1 & #3 get connected, but I am not sure.. Then do I connect #2 to the battery?

Sorry, but I took this bike apart over a year ago and didn't think to take pictures of this because I had no idea I would do anything but swap parts. Now I'm lost.

[Kratzer]

I am a total noob, but here's my guess.

2 of the wires are the loop from the "mysterious and nonexistant" headlight switch that would cut out one leg of the stator when the headlight was off.

1 of them is the positive connection, which it sounds like you are bypassing by going straight to the battery.

I am probably wrong, but thats my guess.

I have 2 red but one green in a similar thing.

The three wires from the stator should all be connectecd the the "duaneage" unit. The factory configuration is not that way because of the aforementioned headlight switch.

Seriously though, I am totally new, and figuring the crap out for myself too. I really am nothing but a barking dog.

[BassCliff]

More cooking with electrons

Hi Mr. dardoonk,

You have a red wire coming from your stator? Hmmm. My stator has three wires coming from it, all yellow.

Here is a pic of a couple of r/r. My old one is on the left (5 wire) and my new one is on the right (6 wire - 3 yellow, 1 black, 1 red, 1 green).




You are correct to connect the three yellow wires to the yellow output wires of the stator. You are correct to connect the green wire to the negative battery terminal. You are correct that the black wire is the "sense" wire. This usually gets connected to the brake light switch, but can be connected to any 12v source that is switched on and off with the ignition key. That leaves the red wire from the new r/r. On my bike, that got reconnected to the red wire that (eventually) leads back to the positive battery terminal.

Here is a picture of my wiring under the left sidecover.




Those charred, green-ish wires that have been cut back and taped off are the wiring to the non-existent headlight switch on my bike. I think your bike still has a headlight switch, yes? Having one leg of the stator connected to the headlight switch would eliminate that leg if the headlight is turned off. That way the system doesn't get over-charged and cook your battery or fry your r/r. This makes it a little more complicated, but not overly so.

If you promise to leave your headlight on all the time, you can just eliminate those wires like I did and connect all the yellow stator wires directly to the yellow r/r wires and the red r/r wire to the (+) battery (through the fuse box, of course). If not, hopefully one of the real gurus here with a wiring diagram for your bike can tell you which wires to use for the headlight bypass circuit. Do your two extra red wires lead up to the headlight switch? If so, you will run one of your stator legs through it. In the picture above I would disconnect one of the yellow wires between the stator and r/r, and connect them to the wires running up to the headlight switch.

You can tell which two wires are connected to the headlight switch using by your multimeter and a little trial-and-error. When your meter goes from infinite resistance to no resistance when you flip the switch, you've found your wires. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[dardoonk]

Bass, sorry I mis-wrote, I meant a red wire coming from the regulator.

I've corrected it above

[dardoonk]

On my schematic, the White/red wire stripe wire goes from the rectifier to the headlamp switch. There is also a White/green stripe wire that runs from the regulator to the headlamp switch. I am not using either of these, I just figured I would leave the headlamp on.

Now I do remember the red wire running from the old rectifier was fused. It's the only fuse I have. According to the schematic, this would connect to the + battery terminal via the larger cable going to the solenoid. I've connected the new regulator in this manner.

I am PAT on the sensor wire, ground wire, and the three yellows are connected to the stator wires, so I have all six wires from the new R&R accounted for.

Problem is, I have two more wires leading from the wiring harness. Both red. These are #2 & #3 above. At least one, maybe both, lead to the ignition switch. This red wire makes a connection to the Orange wiring when you turn the key. One of these leads must connect to the battery, I suppose.
The two wires I am referring too are highlighted in yellow boxes

[Weston666]

Basscliff, I also received duneage's honda rectifier today. and I was wondering if I could connect the RED wire coming out of the r/r to the positive battery terminal, does it matter if i connect it going to the fuse box or the battery terminal?

[chef1366]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=113090&highlight=Honda+R%2FR

[dardoonk]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ht=Honda+R%2FR

Yep, I read that thread.. It was helpful as that is how I got the R&R installed. Now, if I can figure out what do I do about the two red leads coming from the wiring harness ?

[TheCafeKid]

I bought one of those from Duangeage and I was wondering myself too Kurt, as i think our bikes are a lil different than any of the GSs after. Ive looked at N1Elkyfans, and his wires are different, 79 750, our 77s have a few discrepencies from the later on models, so i wonder if there is something that those would have gone to that Duaneage designed into them that other models have, such as a fuse block or something, as you know ours only have one fuse. etc etc...

[chef1366]

You might have extra wires since you had a regulator and a rectifier.

[TheCafeKid]

This is also true! we had the even more evil seperate unit R/R

[TheCafeKid]

One thing i had been trying to figure out ever since i bought my bike and learned that it had the seperate units, is that the (whichever one it is, regulator or recitifier) on the bottom of the batt box had a wire that wasnt attached to ANYTHING, and was still charging the battery. System never failed on me, and when I tested it last before i tore the bike down, it charged just fine. The wire had a spattering of black paint on it, as the PO apparently painted the frame with most everything save the eingine in it. But it still looked like it would have been black anyway. There was also a broken black wire attached to the neg on my batt, so i assume it was another ground. How many freakin grounds are on this thing?? Sheesh.

[dardoonk]

My Clymer manual has a good schematic of the charging systems.. Seems 79 & earlier "non-L" models have the separate R & R units.

I need pictures of one of those that still has everything stock

[BassCliff]

Mr. duaneage's daigram

Hi Mr. dardoonk,

Oh, separate regulator and rectifier? Can't it can be modified to use the single r/r unit?




It took me a while to find Mr. duaneage's diagram. Maybe this will help a little. It's late. I'll get back to you.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[TheCafeKid]

I was just looking at that. I was wondering too, as i just parted out the last of that 80 parts bike, it had a seperate RegRec unit on it, but my buddies 79 L didnt. I was thinking it was wierd that they would go to a one piece unit for one year and then back to a seperate unit, but THAT explains it.