Optimum coil wiring

[Escobarclan]

I talked to George Lesho from wiredgeorge about sending my bs34's in, he told me to check my coils first. After some good feeback on how to check them I found they were reading at 5 ohms instead of 3, and they read 10 volts instead of 12.

He gave me this link.

www.wgcarbs.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=12&Itemi d=26

What do you guys think about it?

I need new coils (I think), but I would like to get the best voltage TO the coils as well.

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. Escobarclan,

We've been talking about this coil relay mod in a couple of other threads recently. I'm going to try it when I get a free Saturday to run down the parts and wire it in.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Matchless]

Our old bikes really need a relay for the headlight another for the horn and one for the coils!
Just a quick comment on the coils. Check the voltage across your battery first, if it shows 12.6V you are good.

Next measure between battery negative pole and the coils 12v lead (usually Orange/White, it should be close to 12V allowing for a small voltage drop in the wiring, ignition switch, connector plugs and killswitch. This I assume gave you the 10V, giving a 2.6V drop in the wiring.

Try to find the reason for this first. Now do the same check and measure between battery positive and the frame as the negative, if your earthing is OK the reading should be very close to the same as before 12.6V. This then proves that an earthing problem is not present and causing any bad reading.

If the problem is indeed a voltage loss (drop) from the fuse to the coils. Then you can localise it by keeping the negative probe to the negative battery pole. With ignition on and killswitch on measure the voltage at the fuse leading to the killswitch and also on the other side of the same fuse (just in case the fuse holder is corroded and causing this). Also measure the voltage on the bottom two fuses supply side (engine side) and compare it to the voltage on the top 3 fuses supply side. This will indicate if you have a voltage drop in the circuit via your ignition switch or not.
Once you have determined roughly that there is a voltage drop then stalk it by just moving from the fuse to the next connector and measure both sides
and to the killswitch right up to the coils. If you find a measurable voltage drop over a connector, fuse etc, try to clean it up or replace.
Usually the total loss is due to a small drop across all the switches and terminals connectors and summed up, especially on an older bike with oxidised connector terminals.
Dirty and poor contacts in terminals and switches can give rise to these and other problems and bypassing one my not always fix another. The usual advice here is to first clean all your contacts, plugs and connectors and maybe getting them back to original working state.
In cases where this is not possible the relay job is an easy way to bypass the old bike wiring causing the problem.

Edit: Read all the posts in this thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=120748

[focus frenzy]

first, a change to late model or aftermarket coils will be good. but do the coil power relay mod as well. it works very well.

I just did it on a bike I am fixing fore someone else and I will be doing it on my 1100E as it has a odd elusive glitch I think is low voltage to the Dyna S module.

the stock original off white (tan'ish) coils are borderline to start with, Suzuki made them just powerfull enough to work.

factor in 20 plus years and even with clean contacts on all the contacts and connectors, spark is marginal at best.

the project bike with dirrect battery voltage has a solid blue spark but it is a tiny spark. my 80 1000G has dyna green (3ohm) coils and it has a fat blue spark that the pop makes the hair stand up on your neck.

[doctorgonzo]

I bought a 1981 GS1000G about 2 months ago, and I had the exact problem described in the link. Carbs are good, compression is good, but sooty plugs. I also experienced an intermittent problem with one cylinder just going dead and not firing. I traced the dead cylinder to a cracked plug wire. Wrapping the plug wire in rubber and electrical tape caused the cylinder to fire again. I decided to get the green 3 ohm coil from Dyna. Hell, if I have to replace the coils why would I put stock ones back on and be again stuck with permanent wires! Let me tell you, the Dyna coils are WELL worth the cost, especially at about the same price as stock coils.

[Escobarclan]

yeah I'm gonna get the Dyna S ignition kit, might as well do it in 1 pop.

[doctorgonzo]

Mine is already electronic, and the igniter had just been replaced with a new stock one after a small electrical fire by the previous owner so I decided to not get the Dyna S. I hear they are great though. Now on to the front suspension (already got new Progressive shocks on the back).