Shimming those clutch springs

[Anonymous]

Hi guys,
I am thinking about shimming my old clutch springs because the new ones are causing a very hard clutch pull. I tried to put a zip tie on the pulled in lever and left it over night. That did not really do anything.

Now, my old springs are worn down to about 38 mm and the minimum wear limit is 39 mm. (I don't know how many inches that is).

So, I figured that it should be enough to use one spark plug washer per spring, what do you think?

And, where do you place the washer, behind the spring or just after the bolt?

Cheers...

[Anonymous]

Re: Shimming those clutch springs

Hi guys,
I am thinking about shimming my old clutch springs because the new ones are causing a very hard clutch pull. I tried to put a zip tie on the pulled in lever and left it over night. That did not really do anything.

Now, my old springs are worn down to about 38 mm and the minimum wear limit is 39 mm. (I don't know how many inches that is).

So, I figured that it should be enough to use one spark plug washer per spring, what do you think?

And, where do you place the washer, behind the spring or just after the bolt?

Cheers...

Shimming the springs on the pressure plate will only make it harder to pull the clutch. Look for a dry cable or a cable that is kinked or routed improperly.

[moto_dan]

Re: Shimming those clutch springs

Hi guys,
I am thinking about shimming my old clutch springs because the new ones are causing a very hard clutch pull. I tried to put a zip tie on the pulled in lever and left it over night. That did not really do anything.

Now, my old springs are worn down to about 38 mm and the minimum wear limit is 39 mm. (I don't know how many inches that is).

So, I figured that it should be enough to use one spark plug washer per spring, what do you think?

And, where do you place the washer, behind the spring or just after the bolt?

Cheers...

Try using half the number of new springs and half old for a lighter pull. Common practice with many racers. Shimming with washers was the way we did it back in the '60s to provide with a little more preload. As far as the 1mm difference it equates to ~.040"(1/25.4) which is about the same as stacking 10 sheets of printer paper(#20 lb. bond), so it really isn't very much. Where you put the washer won't matter.

Dan

[redliner1973]

My question is where do you get these washers? I am a pack rat, yes, but i don't make a habit of keeping old plugs around the house, so where to go?? :twisted:

[Anonymous]

I ended up using washers similar to the ones on the bolt. I had to drill some bigger holes in them.
Anyway its working fine now, lighter clutch pull and no slip.
Thanks for the help guys...

[Anonymous]

I ended up using washers similar to the ones on the bolt. I had to drill some bigger holes in them.
Anyway its working fine now, lighter clutch pull and no slip.
Thanks for the help guys...

I wonder if someone could please explain to me the diffrent types of pressure plate configutations. Especially the type that by adding shims to the springs will cause the clutch to pull easier.

[moto_dan]

I ended up using washers similar to the ones on the bolt. I had to drill some bigger holes in them.
Anyway its working fine now, lighter clutch pull and no slip.
Thanks for the help guys...

I wonder if someone could please explain to me the diffrent types of pressure plate configutations. Especially the type that by adding shims to the springs will cause the clutch to pull easier.

I believe he was comparing the pull with the HD springs which he removed and replaced with Standard springs plus the washers. Net gain was easier pull than HD and slightly more preload/tension than standard.

Dan

[Anonymous]

I shimmed my clutch springs and the lever pressure went up, so I purchased a lever which has different pivot points to lessen effort.
It works great.

[Anonymous]

I shimmed my clutch springs and the lever pressure went up, so I purchased a lever which has different pivot points to lessen effort.
It works great.

I have been loking fo rsomething like that for years. I once saw them advertised in some catalog. Did you just figure out what type to use or did you find some listing somewhere?

[Anonymous]

P.S. I ground down some washers and placed them under the spring opposite the bolt so they would not interfere with any moving parts.

[Anonymous]

I went to a bike shop with an assortment of levers and tried several till I found one that worked.

[Anonymous]

I shimmed my clutch springs. There was no appreciable extra effert to pull the clutch. Spark plug washers, one on the top of each spring, work well. The correct size, is the type of plug my 850 uses. In other words, of 2 sizes of plugs, they're the larger ones. A virtual, perfect fit. Works much better than aftermarket springs, as I've tried EBC and Vance & Hines, and clutch pull was ridiculously hard. Also, this method cured my clutch slip. It's an old trick, but it works.

[Anonymous]

I went to a bike shop with an assortment of levers and tried several till I found one that worked.

Your lucky to live in Leamington. I spent all my childhood summers there. Great place. I still go there every summer.

[Anonymous]

Just a thought

For all those pepole who rides the 1100-1150:s with problems getting clutch-grrip. If you put in harder springs you may experience problems such as I did. My left hand hurts after a while in city traffic. And with the stock springs the clutch will slip.... After a friend of mine modified his clutch, I did the same. I simply bought a Lock-up clutch. That allowed us to ride with the smoothest stock springs wich made the handling VERY easy, yet gave us maximum grip i high RPM/ Load. It allows you to do a clutch-assisted gearchange just as usual. One bother though. The brakepedal and maybe footrest must be modified too, since you put another 40mm to the clutch-cover. It comes in many different brandes, such as: MRE, MTC and ART to mention some. And in the States they come MUCH cheaper than they do here in SWEDEN since they are manufactured there. Maybe something to think of...