Overheat now no oil pressure

[BassCliff]

Oops!

Did anyone else catch this?

Yup, anyone else would have a sign, he settles for a sigh.

Ducking and running for cover, now.

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Oh man, that's funny! :-D

These dang spell checkers are worthless if your misspelled word is spelled properly.

I fixed it Mr. Steve. Thanks. I'm going to have to put you on the payroll for your editing duties.

And I appreciate your concern, Mr. Dave8338. But I'm just a humble servant. 8-[ :-D

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Steve]

Steve....that is akin to taking a shot at the Pope! :shock: You'de better run fast be'fer the bad man gitz ya! :-D

Yeah, and then I have the nerve to ask him if he would host a link to the upcoming GSR shirts on his website. :-\"

For those that have not see the shirt update in the Off-Topic forum, we are working on developing the order form. I have a guy that thinks it will take a week or so once he gets all the information, then some testing, so I hope to be able to get them going by the middle of April. \\/

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[gazingwa]

ok well i dove into the bike today after letting it rest for 2 weeks. The boot o-rings are shot.

The plastic knob on the cam chain tensioner had kicked all the way out and was touching the oil pressure sender (it was a little deformed from the heat too. What would cause this?




All of the cam lobes looked good, I draned the oil and there wasn't metal stream in it. It doesn't sound like i didn't major damage but should i pull the head and check in case?

[Nessism]

ok well i dove into the bike today after letting it rest for 2 weeks. The boot o-rings are shot.

The plastic knob on the cam chain tensioner had kicked all the way out and was touching the oil pressure sender (it was a little deformed from the heat too. What would cause this?

All of the cam lobes looked good, I draned the oil and there wasn't metal stream in it. It doesn't sound like i didn't major damage but should i pull the head and check in case?

Sounds like you need to figure out what's going on with the tensioner - the knob should not be hitting on the pressure sensor. Since you need to pull the carbs to fix the o-rings anyway you should have easy access. I wouldn't mess with the top end unless you need to to fix the tensioner.

[gazingwa]

I already have all of that pulled, looks like its time to order a few o rings. Thanks everyone for all your help.

[gazingwa]

Any ideas what would cause the cam tensioner to kick out like that? it doesn't seem to be broken but the black knob shouldn't be able to reach the sender should it? this really scares me. I also need a new knob, it is shot where can i get one?

[tkent02]

Any ideas what would cause the cam tensioner to kick out like that? it doesn't seem to be broken but the black knob shouldn't be able to reach the sender should it?

Got a pic?

[gazingwa]

no, it is already apart, to late for pictures. I think it melted off of the tensioner shaft to sag a little down to the sender. This makes me worry about the internals of the engine. I shut it down as soon as the pressure dropped though, what are my chances of getting out cheap?

[gazingwa]

The plugs aren't white or bubbled, the valve clearances are still good, the cams aren't discollored or scored, the exhaust isn't blue. should i be worried? or should i just wait until i get my tensioner parts and boot o-rings in the mail and pray?

[tkent02]

The plugs aren't white or bubbled, the valve clearances are still good, the cams aren't discollored or scored, the exhaust isn't blue. should i be worried? or should i just wait until i get my tensioner parts and boot o-rings in the mail and pray?

What exactly melted, isn't the tensioner all metal on your model?

[gazingwa]

there is a plastic knob at the end of it, it deformed a bit which let it touch the pressure sender and melt an indentation. I plan on replacing it with a large flat washer and drilling a small hole fot the spring. any thoughts?

[tkent02]

there is a plastic knob at the end of it, it deformed a bit which let it touch the pressure sender and melt an indentation. I plan on replacing it with a large flat washer and drilling a small hole fot the spring. any thoughts?

That sounds pretty hot.
I bet the tensioner parts inside the engine are some kind of plastic that withstands heat well, hopefully they are OK.

Nothing else inside that would melt away unless you got hot enough to start melting metal...

[gazingwa]

Well, the only thing i'm woried about is the pisotn rings. i'm sure the plastic on that adjuster wasn't mixed to handle very high heats.

I guess the best thing to do would be put it back together and do a compression test.

[tkent02]

Well, the only thing i'm woried about is the pisotn rings. i'm sure the plastic on that adjuster wasn't mixed to handle very high heats.

I guess the best thing to do would be put it back together and do a compression test.

Don't think you would hurt them if it didn't seize, it's not like you were running it hard at the time. Rings are pretty tough.
Compression test is a great place to start.

[gazingwa]

Thats what i'm hoping, we'll find out in a week when my parts come in. Thanks for the reassurance, i have a tendancy to overeact about things like this.

for example, last week i was sure my well was going dry..... it was just a bad fitting underground.