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    #31
    Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
    That sounds pretty hot.
    I bet the tensioner parts inside the engine are some kind of plastic that withstands heat well, hopefully they are OK.

    Nothing else inside that would melt away unless you got hot enough to start melting metal...
    What about the chain guide parts? They are designed to take the heat but that engine must have gotten pretty close to the absolute limit. Nothing much to do other than try to fix the tensioner and see what happens with the engine. Doubt it's going to hurt itself any more at this point.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #32
      well, it didn't fry any of the seals in the tensioner (they have always weeped a bit) They were all still in place and didn't fall apart when i pulled it.

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        #33
        I would love to see a pic of this. I have an extra tensioner off my 1100. Let me know if you want it.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #34
          Well....

          Here is a picture of the knob you can see the corner imprint of the metal casing on the sender.



          This is of it and the piece that cracked off when i was disasembling it.



          This is about how it was sitting on the tensioner assembly when i pulled it apart.

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            #35
            Different tensioner than my 1100. So the nut came off the knob it popped off. I'd make sure you didn't jump any teeth on the cam chain. See if anyone here has an extra one in the parts wanted section.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #36
              no, the nut was still there, the plastic just got soft and it slouched enough to touch the sender

              I don't need any parts, i'm just going to use a large washer and drill a hole in it. I've seen it done before. I'll use that until i can get down to summerset cycle (local graveyard with tons of GS parts)

              forgive me but how do i check the cam timing on this bike? (a link to the proper thread will do)

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                #37
                Take off the valve cover and the igniton cover. Point the ignition trigger at 1&4 with the timing marks at TDC. Make sure the cam end notches are pointing in. There is an arrow on the exhaust cam sprocket marked #1 and it should be pointing at the top of the head exactly where the valve cover gasket sits. On the same sprocket there is a #2 with an arrow pointing about straight up. On the intake cam sprocket there is a #3 mark with an arrow. Count the pins from 2 to 3 including the pins directly above the arrows. There should be twenty.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                  #38
                  Update and a thank you to ALL!!!!!


                  These numbers tell the whole story
                  1 2 3 4
                  Cold 145 121 125 140
                  Warm 150 135 135 150

                  All i had to do was rebuild the cam tensioner.

                  By the way, realgasket was the best $30 i've ever spent, i knicked my old one while reinstalling and this one seals easier and is all around a good product.

                  this is gonna be a fun weekend of riding, i've been jonsing for so long. nice to get my garage back.

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                    #39
                    glad it turned out with a happy ending, I bet you were sweating :-D

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