carb haveing fuel leaking from tubes of bike

[Devildogz28]

sorry working alot

OK heres and update on the carbs took them off yesterday and apart they look really clean inside. took the floats out they look OK and I put them in water and they did float. I was going to replace them and the float needle anything else I should replace in the carb before I but it back together?

thanks for all the help
devildogz28

[greg78gs750]

may wanna test your petcock, too, for good measure

[derwood]

OK heres and update on the carbs took them off yesterday and apart they look really clean inside. took the floats out they look OK and I put them in water and they did float. I was going to replace them and the float needle anything else I should replace in the carb before I but it back together?

thanks for all the help
devildogz28

Just cause they float in water doesn't mean they will float in gas. Gas has a specific gravity less than 1. Also if you suspect the floats are sinking it would be because they are saturated with fuel and they would float again after they dried, for a while anyways, this probably isn't the problem though

[Devildogz28]

How To Test Petcock

SORRY MY BUSY TIME HAS STARTED AN WORK SO NO TIME FOR MY LIFE. SO HOW DO i TEST THE PETCOCK? AN IS IT OK TO USE SYNTHETIC OIL OR SHOULD I STICK TO NORMAL OIL WHEN I CHANGE IT? I KNOW IN CAR THE OLDER ENGINE THE SYNTHETIC ISN'T AS GOOD FOR SEALS AS NORMAL OIL

[Prez]

Many synthetic auto specific oils have many friction modifiers, which aren't good for wet clutch setups found in most bikes. Any syn moto specific oil is ok, but at an avg of $9/qt, many don't feel there's enough benifit to offset the cost.

[Nessism]

Most synthetic auto oils have many friction modifiers, which aren't good for wet clutch setups found in most bikes. Any syn moto specific oil is ok, but at an avg of $9/qt, many don't feel there's enough benifit to offset the cost.

Synthetic oil is fine. It does not cause clutches to slip. It's superior oil because it holds up better to high heat (good for an air cooled engine) and does not loose it's viscosity when chewed up by the transmission gears. If you have a Walmart near, Rotella 5W-40 synthetic is one of the forum favorites. Another good choice is diesel engine oil - any brand.

Good luck.

[Prez]

Synthetic oil is fine. It does not cause clutches to slip. It's superior oil because it holds up better to high heat (good for an air cooled engine) and does not loose it's viscosity when chewed up by the transmission gears. If you have a Walmart near, Rotella 5W-40 synthetic is one of the forum favorites. Another good choice is diesel engine oil - any brand.

Good luck.

Nessim, I was speaking higher end synthetic auto ils like Castrol Syntec, Mobil1, and even higher ones. Bike specific syn or avg store brand syn oils are fine, lower amounts of friction modifiers. I agree that all syn oils are superior to dino oils for the same reasons you listed.

I love dino or syn diesel oil for bikes, higher sulfate levels are better for wet clutch setups. Normally don't recommend then since I'm a diesel tech and biased.

Previous post edited to reflect what I meant to say.

[Nessism]

Nessim, I was speaking higher end synthetic auto ils like Castrol Syntec, Mobil1, and even higher ones. Bike specific syn or avg store brand syn oils are fine, lower amounts of friction modifiers. I agree that all syn oils are superior to dino oils for the same reasons you listed.

I love dino or syn diesel oil for bikes, higher sulfate levels are better for wet clutch setups. Normally don't recommend then since I'm a diesel tech and biased.

Previous post edited to reflect what I meant to say.

Hey Prez,

If you’re interested, you can read about oil until you turn blue at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ These guys know their $hit when it comes to oil. Best of all, there is lots of creditable information based on laboratory oil analysis.

From what I can gather by reading the forum, automotive synthetic oil is fine for motorcycles; lots of guys using regular Mobil 1, not the motorcycle specific stuff. These guys have chemical analysis of all these various oils and in many cases the motorcycle stuff is virtually identical to the car stuff, particularly the synthetic oils.

Use the motorcycle stuff if you want, nothing wrong with that. Nothing wrong with using automotive synthetic in your bike either. Good stuff regardless of the label on the can.

[Prez]

Hey Prez,

If you’re interested, you can read about oil until you turn blue at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ These guys know their $hit when it comes to oil. Best of all, there is lots of creditable information based on laboratory oil analysis.

From what I can gather by reading the forum, automotive synthetic oil is fine for motorcycles; lots of guys using regular Mobil 1, not the motorcycle specific stuff. These guys have chemical analysis of all these various oils and in many cases the motorcycle stuff is virtually identical to the car stuff, particularly the synthetic oils.

Use the motorcycle stuff if you want, nothing wrong with that. Nothing wrong with using automotive synthetic in your bike either. Good stuff regardless of the label on the can.

Believe I've seen that link before, been a few years though. I've dealt with local oil company reps for several years, even though I'm a big fan of Mobil1, they are the worst when it comes to repackaging of the same/nearly same product with different "specific" labels at a much higher price (like MX4T & Delvac1 & Mobil1 Truck/SUV, and Mobil1 & Mobil1 15K).

I'll stick to the diesel oils though (Delvac1 or Rotella syn). I made the switch 3.5 yrs ago in my SV, result was an extra 1,000 miles before missed shifts & false neutrals compared to Syntec or Bel-Ray syn (keep linkage cleaned too), before it'd only make it 1,800-2,000. That was proof enough for me.

[Devildogz28]

broke my cherry

Thanks for ALL THE HELP!!! I broke my cherry and road it .03 miles at 20 mph today but I road it. Again thank