Tappet tool source

[GS750GUY]

Dear GS family,
I'm in the process of replacing the valve tappet shims on my 78 GS750EC. I pulled the covers, checked the clearance and found that virtually all of them need to be replaced. I see my manual recommends a tappet shim replacement tool Suzuki part number 09916-64510. Can anyone recommend where I can get one of these tools, or suggest inexpensive ways to make a substitute tool?
Thanks!
GS750GUY

[JTsGS650]

I got mine here.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1696

Others have been using zip ties through the spark plug hole to hold the valve open and change shims. You can search for "zip tie" for instructions on this method.

[Dogma]

I've done it both ways now. Using the tool is somewhat easier, and skips hypothetical problems due to side loads caused by the zip tie method.

PSA: You must resist the temptation to turn the engine over without the shims in it. The only viable substitute I've found for a shim is another shim. Anything else is more trouble than just getting another shim.

[Suzuki_Don]

Try Motion Pro

[greg78gs750]

zipties.
yes. zipties.

[GS750GUY]

I've done it both ways now. Using the tool is somewhat easier, and skips hypothetical problems due to side loads caused by the zip tie method.

PSA: You must resist the temptation to turn the engine over without the shims in it. The only viable substitute I've found for a shim is another shim. Anything else is more trouble than just getting another shim.

Dear Dogma,
I'm really stupid at this as it's my first experience at adjusting valve clearance. Regarding your last comment about resisting the temptation to turn the engine without the shims in it. How can I avoid doing this? Before I can order the individual shims that I will need to do the job I must first remove all the existing shims, record their location thickness, and then order replacement shims accordingly. If I'm thinking correctly......to do this without rotating the engine I would need a complete shim kit and then remove and replace each shim one at a time. What is the reason for not turning the engine? My owners manual mentions only purchasing the shims needed vs. buying a complete kit. And the manual says nothing about not turning the engine without shims in it.

Also regarding the zip tie method: has this been proven a reliable method by many GSrs?

Thanks, I appreciate your input.

GS750GUY

[GS750GUY]

Have many of you GS'rs out their tried and found the zip tie method to be successful? Any of you experienced any down sides to this method? Anybody out there definitely not recommend this?
GS750GUY

[n1elkyfan]

I tried to use the zip tie method when I did my shims and ended up breaking the zip tie off in the motor and had to pull the head off. I heard of another member tried doing the zip tie method and ended up breaking a valve. So I would say under no circumstance should you do the zip tie method.

[Nessism]

I tried to use the zip tie method when I did my shims and ended up breaking the zip tie off in the motor and had to pull the head off. I heard of another member tried doing the zip tie method and ended up breaking a valve. So I would say under no circumstance should you do the zip tie method.

Agree. Get the right tool for the job. Or if you are a good mechanic, pull the cams like you would have to on about 90% of all the new bikes being produced today.

[BassCliff]

A slappy valve is a happy valve

Hi Mr. GS750GUY,

Don't pull all of your shims out at once. Take a clearance measurement on the first valve, pull that shim, note the size, put it back, move to the next valve. Once you know all of your clearances and all of your shim sizes you can figure out what you can move around to get most of your clearances in spec. Then you may end up having to order only two or three shims. Don't turn your motor without the shims in place.

I use Mr. Steve's handy dandy valve adjustment spreadsheet to keep track of clearances and shim sizes. Then I can order a few that I think I'll need ahead of time. Just send Mr. Steve (Steve) an email to request his spreadsheet. His email address is in his member profile.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[GS750GUY]

Possible alternative to zip ties

Someone mentioned having one of the zip ties break off and fall into the cylinder thus creating the need to remove the heads.
Has anyone thought of, or tried taking say a 12" piece of heavy guaged single strand copper wire like what you would find in Romax, bend it in the middle, strip off the plastic outer plastic sheathing about two inches at the bend and then slightly flatten the bend with a hammer.
The remaining covered long ends could be twisted to form a bendable handle and you could insert the flattened bare copper bend into the spark plug hole as you would the twist ties. The copper being way softer than the steel should not harm the metal and being a lot tougher than the twist tie would not break off and fall into the cylinder.
Just a thought! Now those of you that are way wiser than me mechanically......what do you think. Would this work?
GS750GUY

[TAFF]

why dont you try using a coin of similar size as a temporary shim while swapping , this way you wont ruin the cam or shim bucket, i done it with uk 2p coins and found it easier that the tie method

[Dogma]

Someone mentioned having one of the zip ties break off and fall into the cylinder thus creating the need to remove the heads.
Has anyone thought of, or tried taking say a 12" piece of heavy guaged single strand copper wire like what you would find in Romax, bend it in the middle, strip off the plastic outer plastic sheathing about two inches at the bend and then slightly flatten the bend with a hammer.
The remaining covered long ends could be twisted to form a bendable handle and you could insert the flattened bare copper bend into the spark plug hole as you would the twist ties. The copper being way softer than the steel should not harm the metal and being a lot tougher than the twist tie would not break off and fall into the cylinder.
Just a thought! Now those of you that are way wiser than me mechanically......what do you think. Would this work?
GS750GUY

That should work, except the copper has to be softer than the aluminum head as well. I don't think I'd try that.

[TAFF]

it doesn,t need to be softer than aluminium because the coin sits in a steel shim bucket and the cam is hardened steel, but i thought copper and aluminium where similar anyway.

[Dogma]

it doesn,t need to be softer than aluminium because the coin sits in a steel shim bucket and the cam is hardened steel, but i thought copper and aluminium where similar anyway.

Right. I was responding to the coper wire idea for holding the valve open.

I had thought about using a coin when I did mine, but we don't really have anything of a good size for this over here.