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gs 1150 steering head bearings easy or hard job
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gs 1150 steering head bearings easy or hard job
Looks like my handling problems were not due to tire alignment, but due to bad steering head bearings. I am going to replace them. Does anybody know if the bearings are dealer only or if there's somewhere I can get them more quickly? The Marcus Dairy motorcycle event is next Sunday and I won't have my bike down! I have the parts bike which has low miles and I believe good bearings. I might just take those out, grease them and install them in my bike. The manual calls for special tools to remove the bearings. Can I do it with normal tools? Any help will be greatly appreciated. They've never been replaced and the bike is an '85 so I know its time. I can feel and hear a slight clicking when I turn the wheel and it turns hard.Tags: None
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daveo
Generally when they talk(any manual)about special tools for bearings, the tool will consist of spacers that match the OD of the bearing races,and perhaps a long bolt that goes thru the spacer to pull it up, or a press. So usually a large socket of appropriate size to match the outer bearing race may be substituted, the idea being to set the races evenly and square to the neck upon installation. A screwdriver used to tap on alternating sides of race is usually enough to remove the old ones. While you have it open, you may want to drill the neck and install a zerk fitting so you can grease them without disassembly.If you take the old bearings to an auto parts store(or measure ID,OD and width) they should be able to order you a set within the day, any bearing supply house should stock them.
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kz
I replaced my steering head bearings this winter on my GS 1150 1984, I believe it is the same as yours.
My six year old daughter kept the old bearings to play with, so I still have them 8O , I scanned them for you and I think you can get the bearings at any well sorted local bearing dealer. (I got mine from the Suzuki dealer)
The markings on the conical bearings are:
Smaller upper bearing:
4T 32005X, NTN, Japan KO
Bigger lower bearing:
4T 32006X, NTN, Japan KO
The inside of the replaced bearing looks like http://medlem.spray.se/ocorsagsi/GS1150StemBearing.jpg , this tiny marks really makes a difference!!
For the change you don't need any special tools, however you need:
- A tube/pipe or socket that fits the diameter of the other and inner ring of the bearings except for the inner ring of the upper smaller bearing.
- A portable grinding machine (or whatever you call it in English) like Black & Decker, Bosch etc.
For a start you have to remove the old bearings. Upper smaller inner ring bearing is no problems remove it by hand.
The other rings I removed by using a tube/pipe that I inserted through the steering stem and knocked with a hammer on the tube, a little bit on one side of the ring and a little bit on the other side of the ring.
Take care and don't knock to much on one side of the ring, always a little on both sides to see that the ring is coming out evenly.
Same procedure for upper and lower other rings, but different diameters on the tool tubes/pipes.
Now then you have removed the upper inner ring, upper other ring and lower other ring, you have to remove the lower inner ring.
This remembers a lot of removing a bearing from a rear-axis pinion bearing on a car.
My trick is to "destroy" the roller cage, so that the rollers and the roller holder are removed.
I use a big screwdriver to do the job.
Now you only have the inner ring without roller cage left on the steering stem.
This is the time then the portable grinder comes in to operation.
Take the grinder and grind a trace into the inner ring as far as you dare, without grinding into the steering stem.
After you have done that, use a chisel?? (BIIIG Screwdriver) to crack/split the inner ring, if successful, it is now easy to remove the inner ring from the steering stem.
As you mount the new bearings, keep the inner part cold, then I did the job it was -15 C outdoors, so I just left the steering stem outdoors, and heat the bearing with some kind of heather.
Then it is time to mount, you have to prepare everything carefully, because the mounting should be done quit quickly.
Take the tube/pipe that matches the bearing ring and hammer it into place, as it sti?ll is hot and the stem still is cold.
Remount the rest.
Hope all this could help you, if you need any explanation of my English expressions I'll be happy to explain (if possible)
BTW:
I would not mount old bearings, it is to much job to risk that you have to do it all over again and the cost for new bearings is not that expensive?
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Gerry
Hey Skip,
Just wanted to let you know that at progressive suspension web site they have your answers for how much oil to put in the forks. If you click on the link then you can down load instructions.
Gerry
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Anonymous
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Originally posted by kzI replaced my steering head bearings this winter on my GS 1150 1984, I believe it is the same as yours.
My six year old daughter kept the old bearings to play with, so I still have them 8O , I scanned them for you and I think you can get the bearings at any well sorted local bearing dealer. (I got mine from the Suzuki dealer)
The markings on the conical bearings are:
Smaller upper bearing:
4T 32005X, NTN, Japan KO
Bigger lower bearing:
4T 32006X, NTN, Japan KO
The inside of the replaced bearing looks like http://medlem.spray.se/ocorsagsi/GS1150StemBearing.jpg , this tiny marks really makes a difference!!
For the change you don't need any special tools, however you need:
- A tube/pipe or socket that fits the diameter of the other and inner ring of the bearings except for the inner ring of the upper smaller bearing.
- A portable grinding machine (or whatever you call it in English) like Black & Decker, Bosch etc.
For a start you have to remove the old bearings. Upper smaller inner ring bearing is no problems remove it by hand.
The other rings I removed by using a tube/pipe that I inserted through the steering stem and knocked with a hammer on the tube, a little bit on one side of the ring and a little bit on the other side of the ring.
Take care and don't knock to much on one side of the ring, always a little on both sides to see that the ring is coming out evenly.
Same procedure for upper and lower other rings, but different diameters on the tool tubes/pipes.
Now then you have removed the upper inner ring, upper other ring and lower other ring, you have to remove the lower inner ring.
This remembers a lot of removing a bearing from a rear-axis pinion bearing on a car.
My trick is to "destroy" the roller cage, so that the rollers and the roller holder are removed.
I use a big screwdriver to do the job.
Now you only have the inner ring without roller cage left on the steering stem.
This is the time then the portable grinder comes in to operation.
Take the grinder and grind a trace into the inner ring as far as you dare, without grinding into the steering stem.
After you have done that, use a chisel?? (BIIIG Screwdriver) to crack/split the inner ring, if successful, it is now easy to remove the inner ring from the steering stem.
As you mount the new bearings, keep the inner part cold, then I did the job it was -15 C outdoors, so I just left the steering stem outdoors, and heat the bearing with some kind of heather.
Then it is time to mount, you have to prepare everything carefully, because the mounting should be done quit quickly.
Take the tube/pipe that matches the bearing ring and hammer it into place, as it sti?ll is hot and the stem still is cold.
Remount the rest.
Hope all this could help you, if you need any explanation of my English expressions I'll be happy to explain (if possible)
BTW:
I would not mount old bearings, it is to much job to risk that you have to do it all over again and the cost for new bearings is not that expensive?
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kz
Originally posted by srivettHoly cow Karl, I could fit my head through those bearings! :P
Steve
I have the bearings in front of me and must say that the head size of a Swede and a Canadian must really differ.
BTW:
I used 600 dpi as I scanned the bearing picture, if you open the pic. In an older version of Internet Explorer they could look a little bit (very) big.
Actual outher diameter is 47 mm and 55 mm
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Dink
Karl as always so fast to come to the aid of an 1150 owner!! I thank you as I am sure Skip does
Dink
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Robert Corrie
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