Disassembling fork tubes - bottom allen bolt?

[Guest]

OK - I give. How do you remove the allen bolt from the bottom of the forks, so that you may disassemble them? I'm trying to send the fork tubes from a spare set of 750 forks to Baatfam.

Thanks,
/Mike

[spchips]

You need some sort of impact device, or a holder that reaches down into the tubes. (I've never used the holder, but there are instructions on how to make them somewhere around here.

I would suggest not using an air gun, but an allen wrench/hammer works, or a hand impact wrench should work.

[UncleMike]

I've been using an allen wrench on it, and the bolt spins freely but won't come one. I should hit it with a hammer?

[focus frenzy]

yep, need the holder tool that slides down the inside and holds the doohicky the allen bolt screws into.

I have a home made one.

[JTsGS650]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=758367&postcount=4

Here's a post from Steve with a great pic of the tool. I got lucky when changing my fork seals. I put the fork tube in a vice, stuck a broom handle down into the tube and was able to hold the doohickey in place that way. So you may want to try that... Good luck.

[emjay]

I used half a hardwood broom handle locked in a vise on the floor. I inverted the fork tube and slid it down over the handle. Then I tapped on the end a few time with my rubber mallet to set it onto the wood.

To remove the bolt I braced the vise with my feet and turned the allen wrench, holding the tube in one hand. On one of them I had to use a helper - a 20 inch steel pipe around the wrench for more leverage.

Granted, welding the nut onto an extra long extender would be the best, but I didn't have the tools. I've done 4 sets of forks this way. Worked everytime.

[salty_monk]

Or you can use a stud from the hardware store with two nuts locked on it... you need approx 19mm from memory to locate in the bit in the forks.

There's a 5/8 craftsman socket you can use back to front on an extension piece too if necessary.

Dan

[UncleMike]

Figured it out.

Since these forks had the anti-dive system, I just removed the apparatus, stuck a small wooden dowel in the hole to brace the piece, which gave it just enough friction to allow me to remove the allen bolt.

What a fiasco.

Thanks guys. You're great.

[UncleMike]

But now the top cap from the second one is frozen on. Should've removed it when it was still on the bike! Soaking in PB Blaster as I type.

[Dogma]

But now the top cap from the second one is frozen on. Should've removed it when it was still on the bike! Soaking in PB Blaster as I type.

I just put it back in the bike when I had that realization.

[UncleMike]

I just put it back in the bike when I had that realization.

Luckily I had another triple clamp laying around, so I could put it in that briefly for leverage.

[emjay]

I just put it back in the bike when I had that realization.

Me too. Those caps sure are tough to get back on once you install new springs with spacers. 8-[

[emjay]

I think the most important part of the rebuild is to get the amount of oil to be exactly the same on each side.

[UncleMike]

I think the most important part of the rebuild is to get the amount of oil to be exactly the same on each side.

Thankfully I'm not dealing with that here, but I've gotta do that very thing when I install the new RaceTech springs in my FZR naked abomination.

[bwringer]

I think the most important part of the rebuild is to get the amount of oil to be exactly the same on each side.

No, you have to get the LEVEL of the oil exactly the same. The amount is irrelevant.

(I know, that's probably what you meant... but some bikes take different amounts on the left and right, but the levels must be the same.)

The spec in the manual is just 1mm variation in levels allowed. :shock:



I know a lot of people just eyeball a few ounces in a baby bottle and chuck it in there, but that... just ain't right.