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rear axle nut torque

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    rear axle nut torque

    83 850gd

    how much should i tighten the rear axle shaft nut? i know the torque required is between 61 and 83 ft-lbs, but i dont have a 24mm 3/8 inch drive socket. i got it pretty tight with the stock tool kit but i know that it isnt at 80ft-lbs yet because i installed a trailer hitch that required 75 ft-lbs and i used a longer wrench than i am using and it doesnt feel like the 75 ft-lbs. <does that make sense? i have know idea.

    so my actual question is, how do i determine how much to tighten it(aside from buying a socket and a new torque wrench)? it will be coming off again in the next few weeks i think.
    Last edited by Guest; 04-06-2008, 07:31 PM.

    #2
    I just tighten it down tight as hell and then line up the hole for the cotter.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Only sensible answer to your problem is to buy the tools you need to work on the bike.
      A decent quality torque wrench is needed and of course the sockets.
      The rear axle nut is loosened quite a bit for chain adjustments and changing tires. You need the tools. If you under tighten any important hardware and it loosens under use, you can ruin parts or even get in an accident. Over tightening can cause its own problems too.
      And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
      Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSE View Post
        Only sensible answer to your problem is to buy the tools you need to work on the bike.
        +1, you pretty much NEED a torque wrench if you own a bike. Even a cheap beam type wrench is way better than nothing. A high quality beam type is the best available and doesn't require regular calibration, but they are $$$. A decent click type is OK as well. Learn to use it properly and use it on everything. If there is a torque spec called out in the manual, I pull out the torque wrench. There is a reason that the OEM is giving you specific torque numbers, use them.

        Keith, I would say overtightening is worse than under from what I have seen. And it's REALLY easy to overtighten the smaller fasteners.

        Mark

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSE View Post
          .....The rear axle nut is loosened quite a bit for chain adjustments.....
          No chain on the 850G to worry about, heehee!
          A torque wrench is probably necessary for a lot of vehicle jobs, but you can use my method:
          1 finger for under 2 lbs
          2 fingers for 2-5
          3 fingers for 5-10
          4 fingers for up to 30
          whole fist and arm for up to 60
          all of the above plus 3 foot bar for over 60
          :-D
          note: use your stronger arm (for me it's the right)
          now for the age factor:
          if you're over 50, adjust all settings above by adding one finger to each and a 4 ft bar!!!!
          over 60, 2 fingers and a 5 ft bar,
          over 70 let someone else do the work:shock:

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            #6
            I believe the method Steve told me was tighten it till it strips, and then back off a quarter turn?? LOL

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              #7
              Got me there Lurch. No chain. Still gotta buy some tools though if you want to maintain anything.
              And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
              Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                I believe the method Steve told me was tighten it till it strips, and then back off a quarter turn?? LOL
                And if you don't need it that tight, back off a full half a turn. :-\"

                .
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                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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                  #9
                  Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                  I just tighten it down tight as hell and then line up the hole for the cotter.
                  Same here.

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