where is everyone when i need help????

[Anonymous]

I finally found the correct tool on dennis kirk and i just ordered it. I can not see paying 65.00 for someone to pick up the bike and then labor on what I see as a nut and bolt job. Wish me luck. 8O
Thanks Dave and Hap for the assistance.

[moto_dan]

Does any one recognize this little thing

yep. It holds down and helps route the wiring from your stator. You have to find that missing bolt!

[Anonymous]

Yes Dan . When i Took the cover back off today so I could measure the size of the thread to order ther puller i found the screw
Hap was concerned that it was in the crank case some how. I envisioned little pieces of it in the worst place. but it was all there. The bolt i used to replace it is actually a bolt not a screw. I used a longer one with a lock washer and locktite. Boy was i relieved to find that little screw 8O

[Anonymous]

It can be done without the special tool, at least that's what my manual tells me:



Just make sure to (partially) screw the central bolt in, that holds the rotor. Otherwise you might damage the thread.

[Anonymous]

Harry i have a better puller than that one. I used heat also and the bloddy wheel wouldnt budge
I think that the type of puller shown(which is similar to what i used) cause a small pinch on the shaft by flexing the rotor and doesnt always allow a stubbron wheel to come off. Now denis kirk has the puller on back order. Well i dont expect the parts for two weeks.
By the way Harry, i just want you to know how much i appreciate the time you spent to put that photo on the site for me. Dineke and Anouk are still nicer to look at than you though

[terrybird]

I had that stator wire holder off my bike because I took my ENTIRE bike apart looking for the part you had in your picture. I had every nut and bolt off and I just happened to trip over the stator cover and there was your part! :roll: Really, I took the cover off to polish it and the wires kept getting in the way so I pulled the whole stator out of the case. So there.

[terrybird]

Yes Dan . When i Took the cover back off today so I could measure the size of the thread to order ther puller i found the screw
Hap was concerned that it was in the crank case some how. I envisioned little pieces of it in the worst place. but it was all there. The bolt i used to replace it is actually a bolt not a screw. I used a longer one with a lock washer and locktite. Boy was i relieved to find that little screw 8O

Thats never a good sign, you were lucky to find the screw before there was any damage considering the rpms inside that cover. My screw was really tight tight tight to the case. 8)

[Carter Turk]

Starter clutch problems

Scotty, the special rotor tool is the way to go. I paid 25 for mine. It's a breeze with the tool. If you read my 1150 curses solved post in the GS stories section it describes a dowel on the backside of the rotor hidden beneath the three 8mm allen bolts holding the starter clutch to the rotor. Not all the models have one, but mine sheared the three allen bolts three different times.

The problem was the dowel backed into the recess hole in the starter clutch, putting all the force on the 8mm allen bolts. I had the dowel lengthened so part of it would always be abutting the rotor. I've had no problems since.

The hard part is torquing the rotor back on to spec. I made a rotor holder out of angle iron and one three-way c-clamp. Its best to have the bike on the ground to do this as the angle iron rests on the ground with the sawed off tri-clamp bolted to it and threaded into the two external holes on the outside of the rotor.

The angle iron resting on the ground allows you to torque the rotor nut without the engine spinning counter clockwise. The holes on the outside of the rotor must align in such a way so the angle iron rests on the ground at 4 or 5 oclock.

I hope I didn't spew too much useless information. Carter Turk

[Anonymous]

Re: Starter clutch problems

Scotty, the special rotor tool is the way to go. I paid 25 for mine. It's a breeze with the tool. If you read my 1150 curses solved post in the GS stories section it describes a dowel on the backside of the rotor hidden beneath the three 8mm allen bolts holding the starter clutch to the rotor. Not all the models have one, but mine sheared the three allen bolts three different times.

The problem was the dowel backed into the recess hole in the starter clutch, putting all the force on the 8mm allen bolts. I had the dowel lengthened so part of it would always be abutting the rotor. I've had no problems since.

The hard part is torquing the rotor back on to spec. I made a rotor holder out of angle iron and one three-way c-clamp. Its best to have the bike on the ground to do this as the angle iron rests on the ground with the sawed off tri-clamp bolted to it and threaded into the two external holes on the outside of the rotor.

The angle iron resting on the ground allows you to torque the rotor nut without the engine spinning counter clockwise. The holes on the outside of the rotor must align in such a way so the angle iron rests on the ground at 4 or 5 oclock.

I hope I didn't spew too much useless information. Carter Turk

No such thing as useless information only bad listners.
Thanks for taking the time. Now if Denis kirk gets the tool in soon ill be ok. I ordered it yesterday and thier website showed it in stock, I got an email from them almost imidiately after saying it was on back order. i hope it is not some sort of inventory game tyhat they play.

[Anonymous]

The nut came loose easily and next i must see if one of my pullers will do the trick. I'll try the rubber and plastic hammers first.
Again any ideas or tips will be welcome.

I did this on my '79 550... The Haynes manual suggested the following: The swing-arm bolt is a perfect fit for the hole you just removed a bolt from... Get a slide-hammer handle (or suitable replacement). Remove the swing-arm bolt, put the handle on the swing-arm bolt, and fit into the magnet. Took a bit of banging, but it comes out pretty nicely this way.

Michael

P.S. Of course, this was for the '79 550. Your mileage may vary.

My manual said the same thing, but I mentioned it to the head tech at my shop and he almost had a coronary. Suzuki used a pressed crank, nad if you use this method and the rotor is fully and wholly stuck, you will separate the crank, resulting in terminal engine damage. It was kinda funny when I told him what I was gonna do to see his reaction

[Anonymous]

The nut came loose easily and next i must see if one of my pullers will do the trick. I'll try the rubber and plastic hammers first.
Again any ideas or tips will be welcome.

I did this on my '79 550... The Haynes manual suggested the following: The swing-arm bolt is a perfect fit for the hole you just removed a bolt from... Get a slide-hammer handle (or suitable replacement). Remove the swing-arm bolt, put the handle on the swing-arm bolt, and fit into the magnet. Took a bit of banging, but it comes out pretty nicely this way.

Michael

P.S. Of course, this was for the '79 550. Your mileage may vary.

.

My manual said the same thing, but I mentioned it to the head tech at my shop and he almost had a coronary. Suzuki used a pressed crank, nad if you use this method and the rotor is fully and wholly stuck, you will separate the crank, resulting in terminal engine damage. It was kinda funny when I told him what I was gonna do to see his reaction

Just for conversation I dont think that your mechanuc is correct. The puller pulls the rotor and pushes against the end of the crank. I believe it would have to be exerting pressure at a totally diferent point to disturb the pressed crank in any way at all

[Anonymous]

The nut came loose easily and next i must see if one of my pullers will do the trick. I'll try the rubber and plastic hammers first.
Again any ideas or tips will be welcome.

I did this on my '79 550... The Haynes manual suggested the following: The swing-arm bolt is a perfect fit for the hole you just removed a bolt from... Get a slide-hammer handle (or suitable replacement). Remove the swing-arm bolt, put the handle on the swing-arm bolt, and fit into the magnet. Took a bit of banging, but it comes out pretty nicely this way.

Michael

P.S. Of course, this was for the '79 550. Your mileage may vary.

.

My manual said the same thing, but I mentioned it to the head tech at my shop and he almost had a coronary. Suzuki used a pressed crank, nad if you use this method and the rotor is fully and wholly stuck, you will separate the crank, resulting in terminal engine damage. It was kinda funny when I told him what I was gonna do to see his reaction

Just for conversation I dont think that your mechanuc is correct. The puller pulls the rotor and pushes against the end of the crank. I believe it would have to be exerting pressure at a totally diferent point to disturb the pressed crank in any way at all

You're absolutely correct Scotty, what I was referring to was crwper's sugestion that you use the swingarm bolt and a "handle" like a slide hammer to remove the magnet rotor... The consern is that with sharp, strong pulling impacts on the end of the crank, you could, potentially separate a portion of the crank. With the proper puller you are applying a smooth, even pushing pressure on the end of the crank... it's hard to damage a pressed crank with a pressing force.

[Anonymous]

I see. Thanks for the reply.

[Anonymous]

....Boy was i relieved to find that little screw 8O

Scotty, I always figured that you had a screw loose. You shoulda just asked me!

[Anonymous]

....Boy was i relieved to find that little screw 8O

Scotty, I always figured that you had a screw loose. You shoulda just asked me!

Simon, the fact is that my mother told me many times that when she was carrying me home from the hospital, she heard the sound of something metalic hitting the floor. She often said that it was a screw that fell loose from my brain. True story. :? :? :? :? :? :?
My Momma wouldnt lie to me