Parasitic Drain

[chuckycheese]

My BAD!!

Chucky, I know :-D I was reading your threads last night, looked like boondocks really got you sorted out. You never did post up the resolution though Thanks for filling me in. I think I'm getting to the bottom of this.

Well, that wasn't very nice of me! I usually try to follow up with how my problems were solved and I'm glad you pointed that out.

P.S. Boondocks was really helpful. We haven't heard much from him for awhile.

[J_C]

Looks like his account was deleted or something, he's no longer an active member. But that was a great thread to read, thanks for going through it before me

[chuckycheese]

You bet!

Oh, my pleasure!:-D I think some of the multimeter tests are confusing because they assume you know things you may not know. Also, the directions that come with them seem to be pretty minimal.

[bakalorz]

OK, so I probably fried my multimeter. Thats ok, it was cheap.

I can try the resistance reading, however in the meantime I followed 82 Shafty's advice and began disconnecting wires. First I disconnected the ignition switch, no change in the series voltage reading. I then disconnected the red wire from the R/R into the harness, and the drop disappeared.

Here is my wiring diagram: http://www.socal-letsride.com/storag...00L/Wiring.JPG

My thoughts are the following: removing that fuse stopped the drain, and that circuit runs into the ignition and the R/R. Unplugging the ignition did not stop the leak. Unplugging the red wire into the r/r DID. However, this need not indicate the R/R right? Should I have also checked the R/W wire that goes to the starter button? Or am I misreading the direction of the current; Is the R/W just a continuation of the G/W from the stator running through the starter button and INTO the regulator and would have no bearing on a drain? I guess I'm a bit confused here as to how the battery actually gets charged.

What I highlighted is true. except it doesnt run into the starter button, just the connector below it (and then right back out)

This seems a silly way to wire it, and it is ...
Previously these wires would have gone to a switch that turned the headlight off. They would have cut one phase of the Stator out when the lights are off.

Since you can't do that anymore, Suzuki had to either fix the whole wiring loom, or make that wire do a rather pointless detour with a "U turn".

Guess which they did ? :roll:

[Steve]

Suzuki had to either fix the whole wiring loom, or make that wire do a rather pointless detour with a "U turn".

Guess which they did ? :roll:

You know why they did that?

Because the rest of the civilized world that had the pleasure of importing the GS bikes still had a headlight switch. It was much more practical (cheaper) for Suzuki to have two sub-harnesses from that connector to the left handgrip than it was to have to different main harnesses. 8-[

.

[J_C]

Chucky, I agree. Usually I feel like I'm just poking various points with multimeter and hoping numbers come up I can paste on here

Martin, thanks for the explanation! I was wondering what the heck was going on with that wire as I was looking at the diagram. I had read of that oddity before, thanks for filling me in on the rest!

[82Shafty]

J_C

What was your meter set at when you measured voltage?

I went home and checked mine and I only have .063 parasitic drain. That's right, six hundreths of a volt, not even a tenth of a volt.

As far as ohms, it was very high infact, 17.8MM connect lead to lead off of the battery. 200M setting on the meter in order to read it.

Amps, nada, even on the finest setting double checked with two different gauges.

[J_C]

It was set at A-, 20. When I checked for ohms I tried all the different settings, including 200M, but it registered 1. I have no idea, but I hope that means it is in fact WAY small =] I'm going to check the battery tomorrow, that'll give it 36 hours since I ran it last to drain, if it is draining

[p_s]

Maybe I wasn't explaining myself before:

When the battery is disconnected on the ground side, and then you put your multimeter on volts and put one probe on something and the other on the ground on the battery, you are completing the circuit from the 12v+ terminal to the ground terminal through the multimeter, which has a very high internal resistance that you don't know. So whatever number you get is meaningless, since it won't tell you how much is leaking. It's better to test resistance with the battery disconnected.