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    How to detect oil leak source.

    After putting the bike back together I've discovered a phantom leak. I was thinking of cleaning and drying the bike, then running it and blowing some flour or similar onto it. The idea being the flour will stick to the oil and show the source.

    Is this a good idea?

    #2
    Yep, that should work

    Comment


      #3
      I've read here that foot powder spray works well after a good clean off.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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        #4
        Hold the bike over your head and have someone start it.

        Oh wait, that's a bit dangerous.

        < make sure you wear eye protection, that should do it.



        Just a little humor on a wednesday, don't hit me[-o<
        1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
        1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

        Comment


          #5
          I could definetly see a stream flowing out of the cam cap half-moom thingies. I called my local suzi dealer and they had them!:shock: They NEVER have parts in stock for my bike!.
          $28 later I think I've got it.



          Maybe....

          Comment


            #6
            Those are prone to leakage even new. I don't suggest using silicone often but I do use it on these. Smear a thin layer on the curved part and a thin layer where the valve cover gasket lays. They really can't go bad. Just a coated piece of metal.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #7
              Well, crap. There's $28 I'll never see again.

              So a little silicon, eh? OK.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                Those are prone to leakage even new. I don't suggest using silicone often but I do use it on these. Smear a thin layer on the curved part and a thin layer where the valve cover gasket lays. They really can't go bad. Just a coated piece of metal.
                I think mine are solid plastic. They seem like ABS, but I can't be sure, of course. They were pretty chewed up from trying to get the paper gasket off, so that might be one way they could go bad. But even in that state, some black Permatex sealed 'em.
                Dogma
                --
                O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David

                Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan

                --
                '80 GS850 GLT
                '80 GS1000 GT
                '01 ZRX1200R

                How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Billyboy View Post

                  Well, crap. There's $28 I'll never see again.
                  Put them on Ebay and make a profit.
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I just completed a valve adjustment and these were leaking on mine too. There was a ton of silicon sealant on the old ones, so when I got to looking at them I noticed the valve cover had a slight warp - a gap of about .08mm. The cover was rocking in the center and it was not possible to determine the precise high spot, so I lapped the whole cover to the seat on the head. I figured since the cover was not perfectly flat, i was probably not getting a good and even squeeze on all four half moons as they are proud from the seat, but just barely. I used three different grits during the lapping process. Be advised that this process took about three hours. In addition, I spent another two hours removing all the lapping compound so it wouldn't get into the valve train as the stuff is highly abrasive and doesn't break down easily.

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