Starter Clutch Questions

[egent]

I have an 82 GS1100GLZ, that will not start as of Saturday. As some of you know, I had to replace my entire wiring harness to stop my main fuse from melting down. I also replaced the stator and r/r to actually get positive voltage while running. This was great for about two weeks, then it began acting up when starting. I could hear the starter spin, but it didn't seem to engage all the time. It would eventually spin and engage the engine to start. However on Saturday afternoon when I wanted to get out and ride, it wouldn't start. I took the side cover off after draining the relatively new oil. I would hit the starter, and the flywheel would turn, but the rotor for the charging system, and there for the crank were not turning.

My questions are:

1. How difficult is it to remove the rotor and access the starter clutch?
2. Would just replacing the Spring, pins and rollers be enough to fix the issue?
3. What special tools are needed and what ones work correctly? (I remember seeing people having issues with the puller and have to modify it is some way.)
4. Lastly would be, is there anyone in the western suburbs of Philadelphia that has the above tools that would be willing to let me borrow them, or even better offer a hand in fixing this problem?

Thanks for all the help this site has given me in the past, and I hope to pass some of it one to others in the future.

Thanks,
Dirk

[rapidray]

Most likely you have either sheared the bolts in the starter clutch or because of the pre existing symptoms the rollers & springs are worn out. Go to your dealer & order the rotor puller first. You will need this to get it off anyway before you can ever do any work on it. Ray.

[posplayr]

Seek and yee shall find

As Ray said you need to get the starter/clutch rotor off the crank shaft. I di my GS750 and GS1100. There are different sized pullers that fit the externally threaded rotor hub. Make sure you order the right one.
As standard practice I would replace the springs, barrels and the little push rods. If the outside surface of the hub that the barrels roll on is marred then I would replace that about $95 at Flatout for my GS1100.

The GS1100's can be tough to get off; mine required alot of heat. MAPP gas is much hotter but you need top me careful to not over heat the rotor magnets.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP

I killed a tool but fixed it by putting in a larger hardened bolt to replace the smaller on that stripped.

I have an earlier 80-81 gs1100 rotor/clutch assembly I bought from e-bay that is in very good shape but not perfect. It will not fit my GS1100ED so let me know if you need one. It is the whole clutch, springs, barrels, and a bearing.

Posplayr

[posplayr]

GS1100 rotor hub removal link

Related link for GS1100 hubs. They are ususally much harder to get off than Gs750 hubs


http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...400#post761400

Posplayr

[kwogfive]

79 gs1000 starter clutch swap

I have the sprag unit in hand as the guy from cycle recycleII called it in hand. He said he thought I would not need the special tool to remove the old one and install the new\used assembly. Can anyone fill me in on the steps involved in this process? I tried to loosen the bolt holding it in place and it just turns the engine over, can I hold the old part with an oil filter wrench while I break it loose? I found an online manual for an 80 gs1000 and it shows them using a tool, has anyone been thru this process on a 79?

Thanks,
kwog