Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Too much space between boots and carbs (install)

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Too much space between boots and carbs (install)

    Please help me out with this one.

    It took me 2 hours to get the carbs back in, but now it seems there is too much room so there is some gapping between the boots and the carbs. What's weird is that when I removed them, I never moved the air box. SO technically the airbox is still screwed into position.

    I'm afraid I'll go over on bumb and the carb will fall right out of the boot. How do i make these snug and fitting correctly.


    FYI, I fit the carbs into the airbox boots first.

    ahaherrrrrrrr... frustrated!


    thanks

    #2
    What you've got to do is fit the carbs into the intake manifold boots first (engine side of carbs). Tighten those clamps. Then, slide the airbox boots onto the carbs. Last time I used a screwdriver to push the two inside airbox boots onto the carbs. This can be a PITA, but keep at it till you get them sealed well. There is a large clamp between the two peices of the airbox that you should loosen in order to move the airbox back and forth. Tighten the clamp when you get the boots fit on the carbs. Hope this helps. Good luck.

    Comment


      #3
      I have a similar problem in that my boots have worked themselves off of the carbs except for one. I was wondering how difficult it was to get them back on and what steps would make it easier to accomplish the task??? I thought I had dirty carbs on my 550L but just yesterday discovered that the boot on the right side was tight on the screw but loose and coming off of the carb. Would it be better to order new rubbers (Bike Bandit?) or is there a way to get them back on and tight??? Thanks for any advice in advance as always.


      Kevin

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by JTsGS650 View Post
        What you've got to do is fit the carbs into the intake manifold boots first (engine side of carbs). Tighten those clamps. Then, slide the airbox boots onto the carbs. Last time I used a screwdriver to push the two inside airbox boots onto the carbs. This can be a PITA, but keep at it till you get them sealed well. There is a large clamp between the two peices of the airbox that you should loosen in order to move the airbox back and forth. Tighten the clamp when you get the boots fit on the carbs. Hope this helps. Good luck.

        hmmm. engine side first. Okay. Also, I'll take your advice about the airbox, however, for some reason, from what I can remember, it looked as though the airbox couldn't move any more forward due to the frame. Maybe I'm just imagining this. thanks for the help

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by airportcop View Post
          I have a similar problem in that my boots have worked themselves off of the carbs except for one. I was wondering how difficult it was to get them back on and what steps would make it easier to accomplish the task??? I thought I had dirty carbs on my 550L but just yesterday discovered that the boot on the right side was tight on the screw but loose and coming off of the carb. Would it be better to order new rubbers (Bike Bandit?) or is there a way to get them back on and tight??? Thanks for any advice in advance as always.


          Kevin
          I don't have any experience with a 550 but I would suggest trying to loosen the clamps on your boots and trying to get them to slip on and re-tighten the clamps back up, rather then just buying new ones. Unless your boots are cracked or very hard it should be just a matter of wrestleing the carbs/boots back on and tightening up.

          Originally posted by maro View Post
          hmmm. engine side first. Okay. Also, I'll take your advice about the airbox, however, for some reason, from what I can remember, it looked as though the airbox couldn't move any more forward due to the frame. Maybe I'm just imagining this. thanks for the help
          After you loosening that clamp I mentioned, it will allow the airbox to slide back and forth. It's not much, maybe an inch or so, but it makes a difference when fighting the carbs back on the bike.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by airportcop View Post
            I have a similar problem in that my boots have worked themselves off of the carbs except for one. I was wondering how difficult it was to get them back on and what steps would make it easier to accomplish the task??? I thought I had dirty carbs on my 550L but just yesterday discovered that the boot on the right side was tight on the screw but loose and coming off of the carb. Would it be better to order new rubbers (Bike Bandit?) or is there a way to get them back on and tight??? Thanks for any advice in advance as always.


            Kevin
            Kevin,

            I've got to disagree with John on this. The only way the boots come off when fastened is that they are hard. You can boil them, soak them and mess with them for hours and they'll still be hard in a month.

            Just buy some new ones. The new one's will be so soft you'll be amazed. They'll go on in minutes and save you lots of time.

            The ones on my 850 are so hard I can take off the side of the air box and wiggle the boot on the carb, but it never goes fully onto the carb. I don't run that bike as yet.
            1978 GS 1000 (since new)
            1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
            1978 GS 1000 (parts)
            1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
            1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
            1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
            2007 DRz 400S
            1999 ATK 490ES
            1994 DR 350SES

            Comment


              #7
              I've often wondered what soft, supple rubber boots would feel like. Maybe someday...

              Comment


                #8
                ok here are some tips for you:

                1) Make sure the boots are installed right. There are two left and two right and it matters.

                2) If your boots are not soft and pliable heat them up with a hot air gun (aka hair dryer) to slide the carbs into them.

                3) There can be no gaps between the boots and carbs or your performance will blow beyond all recognition, its a vacuum leak.

                4) If your boots really blow (or suck) save up some cash and replace em asap. It will be worth it in the end. There is no way to heal hard rubber. It is the deathknell for rubber.

                Hope this helps some.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I will check them for softness! The Charmin squeeze test will do! If they are hard then I will order new ones. Looks like they are around $10.43 each on Bike Bandit. Does that sound high$$?? Thanks for the help.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    follow up

                    Just to follow up. The method by which unscrewing the airbox and pulling half forward, worked. I put the carbs in the engine side boots first. Still, it was a PITA. next time should be easier. and oh yes, it looks as though all that effort was wasted... I have to pull them off again. to be continued in another thread

                    thanks for the help!!!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by maro View Post
                      Just to follow up. The method by which unscrewing the airbox and pulling half forward, worked. I put the carbs in the engine side boots first. Still, it was a PITA. next time should be easier. and oh yes, it looks as though all that effort was wasted... I have to pull them off again. to be continued in another thread

                      thanks for the help!!!
                      Glad I could help. I've had my carbs off 3 or 4 times now and it does get easier.

                      Originally posted by airportcop View Post
                      I will check them for softness! The Charmin squeeze test will do! If they are hard then I will order new ones. Looks like they are around $10.43 each on Bike Bandit. Does that sound high$$?? Thanks for the help.
                      $10.43 sounds pretty cheap. And after looking at the BB schematic for your bike I see that you're talking about the rubber boots from the airbox to the carb, and not the carb to cylinder head boots. The airbox to carb boots typically don't get that hard since they aren't exposed to as much heat as the carb/head boots. Before you spend the 40+ bucks on new ones, I'd try to unscrew the clamp and push those boots back onto the carbs. You may have to unscrew all the clamps to get them move, but hey, if it works you saved 40 bucks. Good luck.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Petrol tank off and lots of lube and I have never had a problem (seriously). Just make sure the fuel line is on the carbs when you put them on the engine. It's easier to fit the other end of the line to the tank (later), than it is to carbs.

                        Use rubber grease or silica based lube, not petroleum based products (they eat rubber eventually). You can even use soapy water. It will just dry and not be a problem.
                        Last edited by Guest; 04-17-2008, 11:36 AM. Reason: fix typo

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Get new boots! It's the best purchase you can make for these bikes. Your bike will run better and you'll be able to slide those carbs in and out with no trouble!

                          Josh

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X