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doctorgonzo
Brake rotors
I did a search, but didn't see an answer. I felt me rear rotor for the first time tonight and it's grooved. Not super deep, but can feel it for sure. I checked the pads and they need replacement, but not metal on metal, so guessing this has existed for a while. It's my understanding local auto brake shop can't turn those because they are stainless. Is that right? I'm going to get a good measurement caliper and see if there enough left to turn this weekend. A little leakage from caliper also. You guys know a good source for re-build parts? It's a 1981 GS1000G.Tags: None
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I don't know what your rotors are made of however, the stock Suzuki rotors on my Kat have been machined and turned out perfect and within run-out spec. Should be someone here who knows where you can have the job done. A genuine caliper kit which includes the piston and seals is the way I have gone with mine, not that expensive either, cheers.Last edited by Shin-Ken 1074; 04-16-2008, 09:52 PM.Badgezz, we don need noh stinkin' badgezz!
Shin-Ken 1074
1982 GSX1100SXZ Wire Wheel Katana - BOM Nov 2011
1981 GSX1135 Katana Build completed Mar 2024, Curb Weight, all fluids and 21 lt fuel = 206 kg.
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doctorgonzo
Thanks. I'll call around tomorrow and just ask if they do MC rotors. The kit is about $35 at Babbitts. If anybody knows a better price, let me know.
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Originally posted by doctorgonzo View PostI did a search, but didn't see an answer. I felt me rear rotor for the first time tonight and it's grooved. Not super deep, but can feel it for sure. I checked the pads and they need replacement, but not metal on metal, so guessing this has existed for a while. It's my understanding local auto brake shop can't turn those because they are stainless. Is that right? I'm going to get a good measurement caliper and see if there enough left to turn this weekend. A little leakage from caliper also. You guys know a good source for re-build parts? It's a 1981 GS1000G.
Steve
1979 GS1000E (45 Yrs), 1981 GPz550 (11 Yrs)
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 14001
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
Yes, stainless & need grinding. It's likely you're not noticing a lot less performance from some slight grooves on the rear though so unless you're feeling flush...!!
The caliper kits are about $17 from Z1 enterprises.
Dan1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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doctorgonzo
Originally posted by salty_monk View PostYes, stainless & need grinding. It's likely you're not noticing a lot less performance from some slight grooves on the rear though so unless you're feeling flush...!!
The caliper kits are about $17 from Z1 enterprises.
Dan
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srsupertrap
Any idea how much he took off of your disks? I just went an measured all of my bikes and it seems like i could do some surfacing to my spares bike, but they are all already slotted so I guess i dont need to go there.
The front spec appears to be 0.200 +/0.008 with a service limit of 0.180
and the rear is 0.260 +/- 008 with a service limit at 0.240
My fronts(L/R) and rear are :
81 GS750EX 0.182/0.192 and 0.237 (daily rider)
80 GS750EZ 0.198/0.200 and 0.258 (parts bike)
83 GS1100ED 0.192/0.187 and 0.270 (weekend road bike)
Looks like my plan is to remove the GS750EZ rotors which only have 30K Texas hiway miles and get them turned for my GS1100ED.
Swap the GS1100ED frnt left and rear tor the same on the GS750EX. I'm not too worried about the 750 as I only commute in town on side streets.
I would basically be getting ride of the GS750EX frnt left and rear.
Posplayr
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Hi posplayr, not sure if you are asking me about the rotor work or not? Anyway I had them skimmed as there was only light scratches and score marks on the front pair so minimal material was removed. I had the rotors done because I had the fork tubes out to be straightened and rechromed as they were a bit shabby at the 150,000km mark, cheers.Badgezz, we don need noh stinkin' badgezz!
Shin-Ken 1074
1982 GSX1100SXZ Wire Wheel Katana - BOM Nov 2011
1981 GSX1135 Katana Build completed Mar 2024, Curb Weight, all fluids and 21 lt fuel = 206 kg.
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A little groove won't hurt anyone. :-D
The pads wear into them in just a few uses, the pads last just as long and I don't think braking power is any less.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Most GS front rotors come in at 4.9 - 5.0 mm. I've seen quite a few pass through my garage and that is the norm. THe one exception was rear that the caliper locked on, that had record album grooves that were very deep.
You can use an orbital sander and 80 grit to put swirl lines on the rotor to help break in the new pads.1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely
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Just found this link: Very interesting
Boondocks
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by denydog
May very well be a problem, but I don't think it was the case with my original rotors. They looked clean as a whistle, and the shop checked and found the run out exceeded tolorance....
See The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System for information on why discs are measured and found to have runout and be "warped". The deposits are often not visible. The article concentrates on cast iron discs, but SS discs manifest the same behavior.
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Disks and Pads what to do....
This makes it sound as if it takes nothing for your rotors to feel warped. This might explain what is going on with my E350 Van under light braking.
See The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System
The driver can feel a 0.0004" deposit or TV on the disc. 0.001" is annoying. More than that becomes a real pain. When deposit are present, by having isolated regions that are proud of the surface and running much hotter than their neighbors, cementite inevitably forms and the local wear characteristics change which results in ever increasing TV and roughness.
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You can use an orbital sander and 80 grit to put swirl lines
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Recommendations on Pads other than the FERODO Platnum?
Any comments welcome.
Posplayr
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Shin-Ken 1074
Thanks for the comments, It would be nice to have a fresh surface if I only had to give up 0.005" (0.0025" each side) max which would put be about 25% or the way to a service limit from 0.200" (front).
The orbital sander might work in a pinch and I guess I would try that on the GS750 daily rider. The GS1100ED might deserve a little better.
So how do your disks measure out now?
Did you notice an improvment in smoothness?
What pad you running?
My disks are not bad, I will be stripping it down to bare frame and deciding homw much to do to wheels and brakes. Brakes are a good thing .
Posplayr
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p_s
Originally posted by posplayr View PostSee The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System for information on why discs are measured and found to have runout and be "warped". The deposits are often not visible. The article concentrates on cast iron discs, but SS discs manifest the same behavior.
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