GS 450 L fork seal-

[MysticMan]

(The fisrt time I posted I asked about rectifiers/ regulators and found that I could have save $60 if I posted first. Im hoping for some better luck with this question)

After riding my bike around for a week I discovered the the right fork is leaking. Im going to attempt to change the seals myself but I was wondering if there are any pearls of wisdom out there before I go ahead with the project. Are there any common mistakes I may run into is there anything I should check while I have the forks apart? The haynes manual I have seems pretty straightforward but Im betting theres someone with a helpful trick or two.

Also the manual also describes specific "tool" for seating the seals which sounds suspiciously like a length of pipe. There are no dimensions given but I was wondering is someone might have the spec for that tool.

Thanks in advance.

[Steve]

I made my "tool" by using a 2' length of all-thread rod, put two nuts at each end, jammed together. I used 5/8" rod for my 650 and 850 forks, I don't know if your 450 forks would be any different. Leave about 1" of rod sticking out past the nuts to help you get the tool centered in the area you need to use it. Once you get the forks apart and you can see all the parts, it makes more sense.





You need to drain the fork oil, open the top cap, remove the spring. Remove the fork leg from the bike, use an allen wrench to hold the bolt head at the bottom of the fork, insert "the tool" into the fork tube, use a 15/16" wrench to hold the two jammed nuts that are sticking out the top of the tube and turn the allen wrench at the bottom. Be careful when pulling the parts out to make sure you have all the little washers and spacers, and that you have them in the right order.

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[JTsGS650]

The "tool" i used for seating my seals was a peice of 1 1/2" PVC pipe approx 2' long. Place the old seal over the new one and tap, tap, tap, seated!

The tool Steve has pictured is to hold the 'doohickey' within the lower fork to remove the allen bolt from the bottom of the fork. Search 'fork seals' and you'll get a slew of info on this subject.

[Steve]

Sorry, I mis-read the original post.

Yes, the "tool" to re-seat the new seals is suspiciously like a pipe. Like JT, I use a section of 1 1/2" PVC pipe. I think it worked well on the 650 forks, but it was tight on the 850 forks, so I cut a slit down the length of the pipe to allow it to expand slightly.

But the original "tool" still stands. You will need it to get the forks apart so you can change the seals, then use the PVC pipe to re-seat the new seals. 8-[

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[82Shafty]

I just did fork seals on two 1100GLZ's and it's a piece of cake. Take your time, properly clean the inside of the forks, inspect wheel bearings while you have your front tire off, be sure to get fork oil level even and with in an acceptable range.

I used a big socket to install the new seaks. One and one quarter inch was actually a bit on the small side, but it worked on my forks. You may have smaller forks, but you want to be darn near the outside of the seal with your driving device. Be sure to put some grease on the lip portion of the seal!

[catbed]

i hear you fill em with compressed air. not a lot, around 40 or so. they should pop right out.(after the clips are removed of course)

[mriddle]

Josh (TheCafeKid) and the hands of Jim (RageZro) demonstrate the fine art of seal installation by way of PVC tool ..

Jim found a spare hunk of PVC that was about the same diameter as the seal .. cut it long enough to extend past the top of the upper tube (stanchion)

Worked like a charm \\/