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adjust the brakes gs 750e

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    adjust the brakes gs 750e

    Hey there,
    I replaced all the rotors on my 1983 gs 750e and now the distance between the pads is too narrow to fit the rotors in. The new rotors are in great shape and the old ones were really worn down. Any suggestions on how to adjust the brakes?
    thanks
    Cory

    #2
    Originally posted by corybsv View Post
    Hey there,
    I replaced all the rotors on my 1983 gs 750e and now the distance between the pads is too narrow to fit the rotors in. The new rotors are in great shape and the old ones were really worn down. Any suggestions on how to adjust the brakes?
    thanks
    Cory
    Open the bleeders one at a time and squeeze the fluid out with a channel lock (or some type of clamp) to full open on the piston. Closing the bleeder at the end of the stroke. Then do the same to the other side. Will exceed the max. thickness of your new rotors even with brand new pads. Don't contaminate the pads. Better to do this with no pads or the old pads installed. If you can't open them far enough you will end up rebuilding the cylinders too as they are corroded.

    When installed squeeze the brake to engage the pads. Then bleed off any air. Replace all the brake fluid too with new. Don't be too shocked if the fluid that comes out of the pistons is really rusty.

    Then say: "Tada".

    Comment


      #3
      What twistedwankel said if your brake fluid is old, but you should be able to press the pots back with a wrench in between them and your thumbs on the caliper housing.

      Comment


        #4
        It's not just old brake fluid, there can be a line of corrosion around the edge of the piston that is not wanting to go back into the caliper bore without a fight.

        I have had enough problems with brakes in the past that I now take the piston out of the caliper on virutally every brake job that I do. 8-[
        sigpic
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        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
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        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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          #5
          I've done a full brake system tear down on each of my bikes. The brown grunge does NOT flush out fully without pulling everything apart and replacing the line. If you have a clean system you can just push in the piston using a c-clamp or even your fingers - just make sure you have room in the master cylinder for the fluid you are pushing backwards.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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            #6
            I second the C-clamp.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #7
              okay.. got them in with the provided suggestions but they're tight... very little space between pads and rotor. Can that be adjusted?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by corybsv View Post
                okay.. got them in with the provided suggestions but they're tight... very little space between pads and rotor. Can that be adjusted?
                With everything adjusted correctly, there will essentially be no space between the pads and the rotor. In fact, it is normal to hear a slight rubbing sound as you turn the wheel and the pads glide over the disc. There shouldn't be any pressure on the disc, but the pads will be grazing it as it turns.
                sigpic

                SUZUKI:
                1978 GS1000E; 1980 GS1000G; 1982 GS650E; 1982 GS1100G; 1982 GS1100E; 1985 GS700ES
                HONDA: 1981 CB900F Super Sport
                KAWASAKI: 1981 KZ550A-2; 1984 ZX750A-2 (aka GPZ750); 1984 KZ700A-1
                YAMAHA: 1983 XJ750RK Seca

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                  #9
                  If the caliper is clean internally, the piston will adjust itself when you use the brakes. If on the other hand there is gunk and sludge inside the caliper, the piston may not return properly when you release the brake - which can cause the brake to drag and/or even lock up the wheel. If you have any doubt about the system, tear down the caliper(s) and clean them out properly.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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