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Here's a bit of the history.
82gs1100GLZ
Last year I hadn't done anything to the bike other than buying it and riding it. It had a bit of a stumble during tip in but pulled like an ape all the way to 9G.
Here's what I've done as PM.
1) Checked and adj shims
2) Removed battery box and all components to clean, repaint and reinstall. Had rust that needed to be addressed.
3) Added ground wire to R/R up to battery and grounded bat box (all my connections are properly soldered)
4) Dipped, cleaned, new RB orings, set float height at 22mm (was at 17 from PO), synch'd carbs and if I remember correctly by pilot screws are about 2-2.5 out.
After I did all of this, the bike runs great around town, better than ever, very smooth transition off idle, fires right up when it's cold out, warms up quickly 2-3 mins choke is off on a 45 degree morning.
This year, I took it out and out on the back streets anything over 6500 it intermittently breaks up.
1) I threw new plugs at it, figured its cheap insurance. No change!
2) Checked Volt drop at coils, 1.5, this should have been the same last year.
3) I have not checked ohms on the coils yet to see if one may be out of spec.
4) I plan to ohm the rest of the devices, ignitor, ign box, as per the Clymer's manual to see if anything might be out of spec.
I had a similar problem with my blown Mustang after installing a mallory box and found out it was retarding too much timing when it went into boost.
I wonder if my advance mechanism isn't advancing and not causing enough coil saturation to light the fire at the higher RPM? Just a thought.
I just figured if anyone else had experienced this, I wanted to see if someone could chime in, but if not, I will go at it a step at a time as I am not one to just throw parts at a bike.
A lot of the top-end posts I searched seem to be more fuel starved issues than loss of spark. My bike certainly does NOT bog.
I'm also going to recheck the connection to the ign box to ensure all connections are clean and tight seeing that I did have to unplug (disturb) it over the winter.
This is where it would be nice to have a Sun Scope and monitor the ign and fuel on the dyno to see where the bike is faulting at, but unfortunately, my garage doesn't have such toys.
She has bright blue spark, and runs like a dream below 6500, but after that, it does not break up the same, but it does not have full pull on the big end.
It seems to mimic someone flicking the on/off switch; it does not bog, pop or spit, but just appears to cut out ever-so-slight above 6500 all the way to 9. It does not do it the same every time either, some times only a few times to 9G, other times more. I would say an average of 6-7 cut outs from 6500 to 9G.
I do know about the relay mod, just surprised the bike would start to act up this year, when I am most positive it had the same drop at the coils last year.
82gs1100GLZ
Last year I hadn't done anything to the bike other than buying it and riding it. It had a bit of a stumble during tip in but pulled like an ape all the way to 9G.
Here's what I've done as PM.
1) Checked and adj shims
2) Removed battery box and all components to clean, repaint and reinstall. Had rust that needed to be addressed.
3) Added ground wire to R/R up to battery and grounded bat box (all my connections are properly soldered)
4) Dipped, cleaned, new RB orings, set float height at 22mm (was at 17 from PO), synch'd carbs and if I remember correctly by pilot screws are about 2-2.5 out.
After I did all of this, the bike runs great around town, better than ever, very smooth transition off idle, fires right up when it's cold out, warms up quickly 2-3 mins choke is off on a 45 degree morning.
This year, I took it out and out on the back streets anything over 6500 it intermittently breaks up.
1) I threw new plugs at it, figured its cheap insurance. No change!
2) Checked Volt drop at coils, 1.5, this should have been the same last year.
3) I have not checked ohms on the coils yet to see if one may be out of spec.
4) I plan to ohm the rest of the devices, ignitor, ign box, as per the Clymer's manual to see if anything might be out of spec.
I had a similar problem with my blown Mustang after installing a mallory box and found out it was retarding too much timing when it went into boost.
I wonder if my advance mechanism isn't advancing and not causing enough coil saturation to light the fire at the higher RPM? Just a thought.
I just figured if anyone else had experienced this, I wanted to see if someone could chime in, but if not, I will go at it a step at a time as I am not one to just throw parts at a bike.
A lot of the top-end posts I searched seem to be more fuel starved issues than loss of spark. My bike certainly does NOT bog.
I'm also going to recheck the connection to the ign box to ensure all connections are clean and tight seeing that I did have to unplug (disturb) it over the winter.
This is where it would be nice to have a Sun Scope and monitor the ign and fuel on the dyno to see where the bike is faulting at, but unfortunately, my garage doesn't have such toys.
She has bright blue spark, and runs like a dream below 6500, but after that, it does not break up the same, but it does not have full pull on the big end.
It seems to mimic someone flicking the on/off switch; it does not bog, pop or spit, but just appears to cut out ever-so-slight above 6500 all the way to 9. It does not do it the same every time either, some times only a few times to 9G, other times more. I would say an average of 6-7 cut outs from 6500 to 9G.
I do know about the relay mod, just surprised the bike would start to act up this year, when I am most positive it had the same drop at the coils last year.
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