gas tank removal

[corybsv]

Hi there all,

Is there any specific information I need to know in removing my gas tank? There's a bit of rust inside ( didn't store it full) and as well I'm going to paint it.
thanks for any replies
cory

[doctorgonzo]

Just make sure you unhook everything first. Fuel line, vacuum line, and the two leads for the fuel gauge which should lead to back under the seat right between battery and tank. When you put it back on spray a little wd-40 on the rubber bits before you try and slide the tank onto them.

[corybsv]

thanks dr. gonzo.

[BassCliff]

Hey howdy hey!

Hi Mr. corybsv,

I don't believe I've had the pleasure of giving you my mega-welcome! \\/

Please check my website for manuals, diagrams and lots of pictorial guides by me and other member contributors. Specifically, the valve clearance guide talks about gas tank removal.

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!

Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.

These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:

http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:

http://cycleorings.com/intake.html

You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:

http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

***********************************
Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php

http://www.electrosport.com/

For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):
http://www.realgaskets.com
The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Used bike buying checklists:

http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org

http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

[thewiz]

make sure your petcock is on the RUN position and not PRIME. Keep good track of the tank rubber cushions on the front. Make a space for you to set the tank in an out of way place so you don't have to worry about tripping/kicking/spilling/etc on it.

Just my $.02

[Kcwiro]

if you have all the parts of your gas tank make sure you don't lose any of the little rubber washers that sit behind the gas tank bolt... I can tell you how many times mine on my tank have fallen into the abyss never to return again... I think I am up to three lost... I swear I don't know where in the heck those things disappear to not liek there are huge blank spaces in my motor for them to go but oh well.... good luck

[corybsv]

Thanks very much for the info... what a great site.

[doctorgonzo]

make sure your petcock is on the RUN position and not PRIME. Keep good track of the tank rubber cushions on the front. Make a space for you to set the tank in an out of way place so you don't have to worry about tripping/kicking/spilling/etc on it.

Just my $.02

Good one. I'd even add throw a blanket over the top of it in case a bolt goes flying, a tool slips, or anything else goes hurtling across the room and might ding it.

[pbdavey]

Vacuum Petcock

Does the vacuum petcock simply mean that without a vacuum, no fuel flows so it doesn't matter the order of line removal? Or without the vacuum connected, no fuel will flow, so vacuum then fuel?

Or was it that the spice will flow?

I can never remember...

[80GS750]

unless something is sucking on that vacuum line, gas will not flow....

you can pull either line off first, it doesnt matter as long as its not in prime, gas will flow all the time if its in prime....

[catbed]

to quote uudfourty, "high explosives..."

[ShoeDr]

unless something is sucking on that vacuum line, gas will not flow....

you can pull either line off first, it doesnt matter as long as its not in prime, gas will flow all the time if its in prime....

So having that said, is it OK to remove the tank with gas still in it?

[BassCliff]

So having that said, is it OK to remove the tank with gas still in it?

Hi Mr. ShoeDr,

I do it all the time. Providing you have a properly functioning petcock, you can remove your tank with gas still in it. There may be just a little bit leak out of the fuel hose as you disconnect, but gas will not flow from the petcock unless you set it on the "PRI" position. Don't forget to disconnect the wires to the fuel gauge send unit.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Roostabunny]

Hi Mr. ShoeDr,

I do it all the time. Providing you have a properly functioning petcock, you can remove your tank with gas still in it. There may be just a little bit leak out of the fuel hose as you disconnect, but gas will not flow from the petcock unless you set it on the "PRI" position. Don't forget to disconnect the wires to the fuel gauge send unit.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

If your petcock has lost vacuum and leaks, you can can still take it off - just have a length of crimped off fuel line (put a z-bend in it and zip tie or something) or some other tight-fitting cap ready to shove on there when you disconnect. It's not pretty, but it worked so I could keep working on stuff till my new petcock arrived. And do replace your petcock if it leaks.

Someone already mentioned WD-40 or some spray lube on the front rubber mounts when you put it back on and I'll second that. Goes way easier.

Anyway - it's easy enough once you do it the first time. Pip, pop, ratchet, ratchet and you're done.

[Roostabunny]

Or was it that the spice will flow?

Nice. It's a hot evening commute here on the desert planet.

Oh, and it'll be:
Run - No flow without vacuum
Res - No Flow without vacuum
Pri - Flow regardless of vacuum