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    Hyperpak

    Ok, sync done today: I used the stock tank, but, it would not run with the vac line plugged and the petcock on prime. Did the sync with the vac line connected and petcock on "on". All screws are around the 2 3/4 - 3 turns out. I have the idle set at 1300-1500 (seems to sound good around there, any lower and does not sound as good). No air leaks and all hoses are nice and tight. Bike ran MUCH better, but......Decided to check my electrical stuff too......Very weak spark when cranking (new plugs). Coils check out ok per Haynes manual. Igniter seems to be weak. I got all kinds of crazy readings. The manual states to check in the K ohm scale but some of my readings would not show until the scale was changed to the "M" scale. So it appears that for some of the readings I had too much resistance and on others I had not enough. Has anyone used the HYPERPAK ignition? It seems to be a direct plug in and at half the cost. The bike starts right up now too. Hopefully I am not missing anything.

    #2
    do you have a link for it? i'd love to check it out

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      #3
      I too would be interested.

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        #4
        http://www.erd.co.nz/products/suzuki.html you can buy the stuff on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB....cWAT.m240.lVI I got an email from the seller stating it's a direct plug in...

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          #5
          If you run that make sure you are using higher octane fuel because the timing is being advanced and it doesn't say by how much.

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            #6
            Originally posted by andrewclaycomb View Post
            If you run that make sure you are using higher octane fuel because the timing is being advanced and it doesn't say by how much.
            Just how high of an octane? Will I get away with throwing 89 in there instead of 91 octane? What are the symptoms of something going bad if I do not switch to a higher octane rated fuel?

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              #7
              I will email the company and ask how much the timing is advanced and what happens using different octane fuels. When I get a response, I will post.

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                #8
                It's tough to say how high of an octane because they don't tell you how much your ignition is being advanced. I had something similar to this on my car (road/race fuel maps and ignition curves in a piggy back on the main ecu) and it recommended 89 octane but I always used 91 to be safe in case the gas wasn't up to snuff. I eventually got rid of it and now enjoy 87 in my car. I would say replace with another oem ignition or go the Dyna route. Unless you want to make more power, in which case I would still go the Dyna route but get the programmable model not the S model.

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                  #9
                  I would go the DYNA rte, except my bike is all electroni (NO POINTS) and I don't feel like drilling/fabbing anything on the ignition. The stock OEM igniter is approx $400. So if this works at $160... it's worth it.

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                    #10
                    I thought all you need to make a Dyna work is a stock ignition advancer from one of the older bikes. I think I even have a couple of them in my parts closet.

                    Although I'm not 100% on this and would wait for somebody else to confirm it.

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                      #11
                      He's right. You have to fab a new mounting plate for the Dyna pickups, because our block uses two screws to mount the plate rather than the three that the Dyna is designed for from the older 550's. I got it to work on mine, but it was a pain. I would go with the Hyperpack if I were you. Or a Boyer Brendsen.

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