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engine screws ??

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    engine screws ??

    Hey All having a hard time removing stock engine screws even with my trusty impact driver
    would a pneumatic impact gun do the trick or cause damage ? The screws have never been removed from my 78 GS1000 changing to S/S bolts thanks, Rob

    #2
    A pneumatic impact gun puts a LOT of twisting power to the screws, but that will only strip the heads quicker. Your "trusty" hand impact driver, used correctly, is still probably your best bet as it also sets the bit into the screw head rather firmly with each hammer blow.

    .
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    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
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    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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      #3
      Soak the bolts with PB Rust Blaster. It will make it's own way through the threads.
      2010 Honda VFR1200F
      1983 Suzuki GS750T (sold)
      Being Revisited
      1981 Honda CM400T
      http://www.bikepics.com/members/cloudbreakmd/

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        #4
        I switched from using a hammer to using a big rubber mallet and it seems to work better.

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          #5
          OK here is what I use, an old-timer aircraft guy showed me after watching me spin my wheels for a while. Get a speed handle. One with a knob on the end is better to allow you to put some weight on it. Put your appropriate bit or socket tool on it then put it on your fastener. lean on the knob/end so it doesnt slip. Move the speed handle back and forth. There will be some play, that is good. If the bit doesnt slip, it will usually let go after a few of these cycles. It really works well. If you are having some slippage problems with damaged phillips heads, you can dab your bit with some valve grinding compound to give it some extra bite.

          PS: Some folks will not put stainless screws into aluminum, as it may cause corrosion due to dissimilar metal corrosion. Use some anti sieze if you go with stainless.

          Good Luck Steve

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            #6
            It can also help to warm up the engine first.

            When doing ss try to go with 316...seems to have less tendency to gall when against dissimilar metal. If the fastener is tight just go real slow so it doesn't generate any heat. And be careful about your torque values...the stainless won't stretch near the rate aluminum will...meaning you can rip out or overstress your threads in a hurry.

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              #7
              Valve lapping compound added to tip of the driver also helps it hang onto fastener for removal. I replaced all my side cover screws with SS allen head fasteners and applied anti-seize to threads.
              78' GS1000EC
              79' GS850GN
              79' GS1000N
              79' GS1000EN
              81' GS1100EX

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                #8
                I too had trouble with a few screws. My solution was a 2 lb sledge hammer and impact driver. For a couple I also carefully applied heat from a propane torch and then the impact driver again. Not sure if the heat helped or not, but the screws did come out after heating and hitting.

                The phillips head grooves get damaged easily. When this happened I chiselled a slot across the head and used the slotted bit.

                I think my screws were not aluminum - they must have iron in them as my magnet picks them up. Good luck.

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                  #9
                  When I did this a couple weeks ago, I found that the EXACT fitting philips head was absolutely essential. A rubber mallet worked the best as well. Still had a couple that just destroyed the head on first impact, so I used my dremel to cut a groove in it and used the impact driver with a thick flathead bit. That worked great.

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