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What did I do?!?!?

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    What did I do?!?!?

    So I noticed oil on the valve cover, lefthand side at the second bolt in (closest to seat), and after doing some looking through the forums, I realized that I needed to replace the valve cover gasket. The local dealer had several (suprise!) for my 1986 GS1150E, so I purchased 2. Removed the cover, replaced the gasket, then began to re-torque the screws, accordiing to the manual. Lo and behold, I found the reason for the oil leak. Three of the ten screws (threads in the head, not the screws), are stripped,; the one mentioned, and two on the other side. FREAKIN' SOB!!!!

    I have never torn apart an engine, but am capable if necessary. Do I need to replace the head, or do I have an alternative? I recently purchased this, and now am totally unsure if I have a project that is going to take a lot of time, or a simple fix.

    Help!!!!!!

    #2
    You can use helicoils to repair the threads. Hopefully, there is enough room to work on it with the engine still in the frame.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      Lot's of room on the 1150. Bummer if some of those valve cover threads are on the cam caps. It would be easy just to replace the cam cap covers but you really shouldn't mix and match. Helicoil is easy enough to do though.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

      Comment


        #4
        There is also something called "liquid metal",which is like a 2 component glue with metal in it.Just mix the components,put it in the hole which is to be threaded, and insert the screw.Wipe off excess thoroughly and wait for a while,but not until completely hardened.Take the screw out again,wait until hardening process has completed,and presto,new threads.Available for aluminum or cast iron.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
          Lot's of room on the 1150. Bummer if some of those valve cover threads are on the cam caps. It would be easy just to replace the cam cap covers but you really shouldn't mix and match. Helicoil is easy enough to do though.

          Thanks Nessism/chef. Thankfully there is plenty of room to work once you get the tank off. Only one of the cam caps is bad, so I should be able to get the repairs done early this week.

          Comment


            #6
            The 1150 cam caps are the same as the oil cooled GSXRs in that the threads that the cam cover bolts go into ARE in the cam caps. Just rotate the motor so that the cam cap you want to remove doesn't have the lobe nearest opening. Pull that cap & helicoil it. I do my helicoils on my drill press to make SURE they go in at a true 90 degrees. Re-install the cap, torque to 96 inch lbs. & repeat process for the next. I do these ALL the time on 1150s, GS700s, & all kinds of GSXRs. Just make sure you use a drill press or a mill to get the helicoils in at 90 degrees. It isn't hard, just take your time. Do NOT use the liquid metal products as they DON'T last! Ray.

            Comment


              #7
              might be worthwhile just trying a tap in the original size, it may give you enough to grab on to without the whole helicoil headache.

              nick

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by crazedfooter View Post
                might be worthwhile just trying a tap in the original size, it may give you enough to grab on to without the whole helicoil headache.

                nick
                Once they are stripped it is TOO late. TRUST me on this one as I have done LOTS of them! It IS an easy fix though. Find a GOOD Suzuki drag racer near you or an OLDER Suzuki mechanic & they will be able to help you. Just tell them you already know it has to be done on a drill press or a mill to keep them straight so they will know you mean business about having it done right. Ray.
                Last edited by rapidray; 04-28-2008, 01:07 AM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                  Once they are stripped it is TOO late. TRUST me on this one as I have done LOTS of them! It IS an easy fix though. Find as GOOD Suzuki drag racer near you or an OLDER Suzuki mechanic & they will be able to help you. Just tell them you already know it has to be done on a drill press or a mill to keep them straight so they will know you mean business about having it done right. Ray.
                  Thanks Ray, I will make some calls tomorrow to try and find someone locally. Too bad your in SoCal and i'm up in NorCal, otherwise I would ask what your labor rate was!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    How far are you from Rocklin?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The caps on the '83 and up 750 and 1150 models are the same. Unfortunately they do strip out pretty easy. When I took my bike in new for its 600 mile service it came back with one of the bolts weeping a little oil. After that I started running my own valves and found the problem. Heli-coils in that size are tough to come by. I actually had to call Heli-coil directly and they ended up sending me a kit for free. I doubt they do that anymore but it was great of them to do that. It's a 7mm bolt with either a 1.00 or 1.25 pitch. I don't remember of the top of my head. You do need to use a drill press if possible to center the hole and a get it straight.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        these bolt holes are PITA the mechanical equivalent of the crappy electrics on GS bikes.

                        work hardening of the metal would likley cause stripping evetually even if you used a torque wrench.

                        I recall one fine summer of having a constantly well oiled knee.
                        I did a cam cap switch but only check the wear visually as I lacked a precision tool to measure the items. Nothing bad has happened yet....yet.

                        I dont think you can buy the cam caps form OEM as they are grouped as part of the head. likely because the engineers didnt want you changing a worn in mating surface, who knows.

                        Id prefer to use a threaded insert rather than a helicoil

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