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anti-dive front suspension removal-do or don't?

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    anti-dive front suspension removal-do or don't?

    Hi people. New guy here. I love this forum.
    I have a question about anti-dive front suspension. I have a 1984 GS400 with this contraption on the front fork. I don't know if I should leave it alone of plug the brake line extension going to the fork and eliminate the anti-dive completely. I just bought the bike and am fixing it up for a safety. A lot of my riding will be done on dirt roads. Any comment or opinion is appreciated. Thanks

    #2
    most folks fabricate a plate and replace the banjo bolts with a single instead of a double. It will change the feel of your braking a bit.

    I would seriously consider changing out the front springs with progressive springs as well as slightly heavier fork oil. Though I like my suspension pretty stiff.

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      #3
      good luck, i posted the same question this last winter results were dead even on a poll 20/20 i decided to keep mine since there was no definative answer and i think they look kinda cool.

      here is the link to my post.

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        #4
        i think it would be cool to convert a gs to a dual sport...:shock:

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          #5
          I am converting it to a dual sport with street/trail tires and motocross handlebars. I actually call it an adventure riding bike. I think I will keep the anti dive suspension. I will post a picture as soon as it is complete. It will be fun to explore the lakes and trails for a change.:-D

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            #6
            Hi Denis,
            I blocked of the anti dive on my bike (GS1000 with GSX1100 forks) and it gives a much better feeling of what your brakes are doing, and the anti dive didn't work very much any way. As Skreemer suggested, go for the progressive springs as well, as they are a better option than the anti dive.
            Good luck,
            Ed

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              #7
              If you do block off the anti dive you'll have to replace the springs as they are not designed to work without the anti dive in operation. In other words, they're too soft to hold the front end up without the additional compression damping afforded by the anti dive valve.

              If you do keep it active, make sure the bushings inside the fork are all in good nick as the fluid will leak past them, effectively negating the anti-dive. The result, as you may guess, is a fork that bottoms on every bump it sees.

              I learned this on my 83 GPz 750.

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                #8
                I looked for progressive springs for the forks and could not find some. My forks are too small. 33mm outside dia. My mechanic suggested cutting the springs a bit and adding a shim for stronger response. He also mentioned that it wasn't a matter of just using a chop saw and then torches to flatten the end. It is a measured and calculated job. I think I won't modify it. The fork oil was black when I drained them. I will take them apart, wash them and replace the seals. Bleed the brakes and try it like that. I bought this bike for $500 and will have another $750 in repairs and parts by the time I'm finished . I found that first gear was too high so I invested in a bigger rear sprocket. Of course this meant a new chain and front sprocket. That wasn't in my budget. The wife is not pleased[-X.

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