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how do i verify cdi igniter is good?

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    how do i verify cdi igniter is good?

    is there a test i can perform to verify or can the suzuki service department check my cdi unit to make sure it is good?

    #2
    Originally posted by novacane View Post
    is there a test i can perform to verify or can the suzuki service department check my cdi unit to make sure it is good?
    Yes.:-D:-D:-D
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      Hmmm, we've got our smarty pants on, don't we? :-D

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        #4
        My Clymer manual has the procedure in Chapter 7. Where does your manual have it?

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          #5
          Mr. novacane,

          See if there is a manual for you on my website. Check out the Greeting/Vendors/Info page while you're there. Hopefully there's something there you can use.


          Thank you for your indulgence,

          BassCliff

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            #6
            Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
            Hmmm, we've got our smarty pants on, don't we? :-D
            Yes[-(
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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              #7
              See my response to your other thread.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                #8
                Year and exact model of bike would help. Here the method for my bike. Yours may be the same.

                Here's how to check the ignitor. Remove spark plugs 1 & 2 and ground them to the motor so they will fire when they get power. With the ignitor facing you, the plug on the right side of the ignitor is where the signal generator plug fits. The two terminals on the right side of that portion of the ignitor will be pin 1 at the front and pin 2 at the back. The two left pins will be pin 3 in front and pin 4 at the back. Turn the ignition switch on. With a multitester set a the X1 ohm range put the + probe on pin 2 and the - probe on pin 1. Plug number 1 should fire. Next put the + probe on pin 4 and the - probe on pin 3. Plug number 2 should fire. If this happens the ignitor is good and the signal generators are suspect.

                As for testing the signal generators, measure the resistance between the two wires on each pickup. You should get somewhere around 130-200 ohms. If the resistance is infinity or less than spec they are shot.

                To test the coils put one probe of the multitester on each of the terminals on the primary side of the coil. You should get 3-5 ohms. Check the secondary windings by placing one probe into each of the plug wires coming from one coil. Those would be 2 & 3 from one coil and 1 & 4 for the other. You should get 30-50,000 ohms for stock coils and 15-20,000 for aftermarket.

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                  #9
                  Listen to Billy - this little tip got my GS running.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Billy Ricks View Post
                    Year and exact model of bike would help. Here the method for my bike. Yours may be the same.

                    Here's how to check the ignitor. Remove spark plugs 1 & 2 and ground them to the motor so they will fire when they get power. With the ignitor facing you, the plug on the right side of the ignitor is where the signal generator plug fits. The two terminals on the right side of that portion of the ignitor will be pin 1 at the front and pin 2 at the back. The two left pins will be pin 3 in front and pin 4 at the back. Turn the ignition switch on. With a multitester set a the X1 ohm range put the + probe on pin 2 and the - probe on pin 1. Plug number 1 should fire. Next put the + probe on pin 4 and the - probe on pin 3. Plug number 2 should fire. If this happens the ignitor is good and the signal generators are suspect.

                    As for testing the signal generators, measure the resistance between the two wires on each pickup. You should get somewhere around 130-200 ohms. If the resistance is infinity or less than spec they are shot.

                    To test the coils put one probe of the multitester on each of the terminals on the primary side of the coil. You should get 3-5 ohms. Check the secondary windings by placing one probe into each of the plug wires coming from one coil. Those would be 2 & 3 from one coil and 1 & 4 for the other. You should get 30-50,000 ohms for stock coils and 15-20,000 for aftermarket.
                    Make sure the plugs are good though.
                    I tested the igniter in my GS1100GL per Clymers - had no spark in either plug. Thought great, $300 - $400 for a new igniter (or Dyna 2000). Gave it one more try with brand new plugs (old ones were only 1 year old). Now the bike runs great.

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                      #11
                      pulled 1 and 2 plugs,put plugs back into wires and grounded them to engine.#1 did not fire#2 was firing every time i turned the key on .went to other side and #3 was firing every time i turned the key on.swapped plugs to see if it would fire them and yes it did.checked signal generator with meter and it checked 159 so they are good.i am stumped

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                        #12
                        With the igniter hooked back up and the plugs for 1&2 pulled and grounded to the engine do you get spark on both plugs when cranking?

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                          #13
                          plug #1 is not firing/plug#2 is firing hot blue fire/ready to set this suzuki on fire

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                            #14
                            This is really strange. The test gets it to fire but not with everthing plugged together again. It almost sounds like there has to be a bad connection or a break in the wire for the outer cylinders from the signal generator to the igniter. If you have a wiring diagram trace the wires leading to and from the signal generators.

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                              #15
                              Okay, I just read your response again and #1 still wouldn't fire. Did you try the test the way I outlined? You could just use a piece of wire to jump the terminals. You said you turned the key on, did you crank the engine? May sound like a dumb question, but I'm just trying to help troubleshoot.

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