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Running Rich and boggy...
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Johnny K
Running Rich and boggy...
Top-end rebuild. I put pods on recently and ran about 200 miles. Have a Stage 3 Jet. V&H pipe. Vent hoses were attached because I was not aware of the restriction of air. Original breather hose was attached. When they were on, it would slightly bog til about 3,000RPM and be fine and no bog at any idle or mph there after. Ran very smoothly. Very once in awhile a slight pop from the pods (sound of a pop of gasping air). I still havent changed the oil and synched the carbs. I will do that next week. Today I routed a new breather hose from cover following frame down battery to where center stand used to be. Took the vent hoses off and figured that would help out the bike. It warmed up and took it for a ride. Really noticed and felt that it was just bogging before 3,000RPM and after it was okay. I took one ride, but I think after 3RPM the ride wasn't as smooth as when it had the hoses on. It smelled really rich too when warming up and after ride just idling there. With the vent hoses on, I would come to a stop and the tach would be around 200-400RPM, and not stall! Then it would come up to norm around 1,000RPM. Now when I rode and let idle, it would stall if i didn't throttle and smell of rich/gas through the pipe. I just thought taking the hoses off would be better. Taking into consideration that I still have to synch the carbs. In the air, thanks...Tags: None
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You need to do plug chops at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and set the jet needle properly. If you think you are rich you need to lower the needle by raising the clip on the needle one notch.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Johnny K
I really dont know what im doing as far as that goes chef. But Im going next week to my mechanics and change the oil, re-torque bolts, and synch because he has that tool. I would rather do it with him around then by myself and screw up even more and then no getting it to run. I did take the air filters, carbs and intake boots off and wanted to make sure it was tight and no air issues. I made the allen bolts to the intake really tight and screws on the carb and filters. I think I switched a intake boot and pod from one carb to another. I did put the boots on the correct side by the "L" and "R" marking on the boots. Would the changing of the boots and pods make a huge difference in how it runs?? Thanks.
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Eliminating intake leaks would improve things.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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