Electronic Components, Source?

[Guest]

Hey you guys in GS land, when you do repairs on electronic components, where do you do your online component purchases?
I am looking at repairing my tach, again, and unfortunately, now I am in a new city and don't know where to buy stuff. So, need to do it online.
I am looking to get the two capacitors, the big blue thing and the little blue thing. Excuse the technical language, but if you know what the big blue thing's specs are, and the little blue thing's specs, please let me know what they are and what I should be getting.
One shop I went to said the big blue thing was a thiolytic something(?) and sold me some really tiny grey components to replace it with. The guy said it was the same as the big one, just not as robust. If that makes sense.
Thanks for any help you give me.

[robertbarr]

Any way you look at it, it's shipping that's going to bite you.

Components are kind of hard to search for, since 'component' can mean the fundamental pieces, or a complete unit (DVR, receiver, etc...), so search engines go astray.

Here's one:

http://www.memotronics.com/

There's also Mouser.

And don't discount ebay. Find a seller with capacitors (or whatever) listed, and contact them. Odds are they'll have the item you need.

Finally, Radio Shack still carries a fair number of fundamentals.

(Unless you ask for a 'blue thing' or 'little blue thing'. You might need to be a tad more specific.)

I'm sure other forum members will have a few suggestions.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Actually they are called Tantalum They should have a 3 diget # like
475 for 47 mfd 476 4.7 mfd on the part with 35+ (voltage)
or it could be stamped 47 or 4.7 on the part the value is critical for tack calabration
I have access to some of them If not in a rush

[Clone]

Your so right Lynn, I knew it started with a T and that was what came to mind. I will see if I can pull the numbers off of them, and keep in mind that you can source some if I can't get it local or off the web. Thanks

[jknappsax]

The originals were probably electrolytic caps. On a 12 Vdc system, they are usually polarized, so make sure you put the + terminal on the same connection that the originals used. Though tantalums can have the same value and working voltage, I don't usually like to replace an electrolytic with a tantalum; when a tantalum fails, it usually does so suddenly, and sometimes explosively. Electrolytics usually lose value over time, act flaky, then sometimes blow up. Another parts supplier is Newark.

[Clone]

Ok, got some pictures of the offending parts but can't decipher the code, The big green tantalum is of what value
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...8/P5060006.jpg

The little blue tantalum only says 35V and 1+ on it but I think it is a 0.68uF@35V, right?
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...8/P5060004.jpg

The two capacitors are 4.7uF 25V and 33uF 25V.