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SHE'S ALIVE, FINALLY -what to do before I synch carbs?

  • Thread starter Thread starter maro
  • Start date Start date
M

maro

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A GOOD DAY WRENCHING!! FINALLY! WHAT A FEELING!! SHE STARTED!

Now some questions


CARBS - assembled, not leaking, air mixture screw turned 2 1/4.

PLUGS- cleaned the old ones, getting new ones.

AIR FILTER- cleaned

OIL FILTER - I change out oil and filter for fear of having gas in the oil. Will change again in 50 miles

VALVES - all but three shims replaced. Waiting for a 2.60 to swap around the final 3.

VALVE COVER - after spending 3+ hours with a razor blade scrapping off old gasket material (what a chore), I replaced the gasket with a new OEM, slightly oiled. Looks like I have a slight leak from 3 of the half moons. Search the gs sight and found threads recommeding using a sealent.

So after all this was in place, I primed and cranked. She wouldn't fire. I scratched my head, then blew into a carb vent. She fired right up after that. I then adjusted the idle down to 1100. From then on, I fired her up every 10 minutes about 5 times and everytime I was able to start her up withought needing the choke. IS THAT A BAD THING? She would go right to idle speed and stay there.

I will get some sealant for the half moons, but I will wait until I swap out those last 3 shims to add the goo.

I have to ride at least 40 miles to get the carb's synched by a fellow GSR member.

What else needs to be done before the synch?
Is the bike okay to ride until I get the carbs synched?
What does blowing into the carb vent do exactly?
Is starting without choke a bad thing?

THANKS!!
 
OIL FILTER - I change out oil and filter for fear of having gas in the oil. Will change again in 50 miles

I have to ride at least 40 miles to get the carb's synched by a fellow GSR member.

What else needs to be done before the synch?
Is the bike okay to ride until I get the carbs synched?
What does blowing into the carb vent do exactly?
Is starting without choke a bad thing?
Suggestion: go 80 miles before changing the oil and filter.

Why? You said you were going to do it at 50, but it's 40 miles to the friend. No sense in stopping 10 miles into the trip home just to change the oil. :-\"

Other than that, it sounds like you pretty much have it covered. Don't forget to check your tire pressure.

Yes, the bike is OK to ride. It won't hurt anything, it just might not give smooth response just off-idle, and it might vibrate a bit because of uneven cylinder loading.

Blowing into the carb vents pushes fuel through the jets, into the carb throats. It's a quick enrichening method when the carbs aren't doing it themselves.

Starting without choke (remember, it's not a choke, it's an enrichener) is not a problem. It does hint that your idle mixture might be on the rich side. You said your screws were out 2 1/4 turns. After getting the sync done, leave the hoses attached. The bike will already be warm, so tweak the mixture screws for highest rpm, then double-check the sync. You may find that 2 turns might be better than 2 1/4, but only your bike knows for sure.

.
 
Congrads! The great feeling of sucess. Especially when you do it yourself. \\:D/
Put a little yamabond on the bottom of the half moon next time you have the valve cover off.
 
if you still need to adjust your valves then wait till they're right to sync. if you sync then adjust the valves you'll lose sync.

a good thing to do is check your voltage at the coils, should be at least 12v or 13.5v running for optimal spark.

a crucial thing to do is MAKE SURE you're not running too lean.

ride up and down the road, light her up a little, then pull the plugs and make sure they are burning at least darker than light brown, you don't want to burn a hole in your pistons.
 
The bike will already be warm, so tweak the mixture screws for highest rpm, then double-check the sync.

First off, Thanks Steve, (and all of you) for all the help since last year. You definitely added some confidence and knowledge to this hear newbie.

Now, when you search on the forum for "mixture screw" you get about 500 results. So, can you break down what it means to tweak the screws for highest rpm?.


Put a little yamabond on the bottom of the half moon next time you have the valve cover off.

Can I only get this at bike shops? Can I get this or something similar at an auto place?


a good thing to do is check your voltage at the coils, should be at least 12v or 13.5v running for optimal spark.

Going to do this next week when I synch the carbs. thanks
 
Too many hits on your search? Change your search. I did a search on "highest rpm" and only got 247 hits. Changed again to "highest+rpm" and got only 167. 8-[
If you then find one of the threads with just a few posts, you can see many different versions of the same story.

Basically, start with all the mixture screws about 2 turns out from lightly seated. Some prefer 2 1/2, others prefer 3, but any of them will work for a starting point. Warm up the bike with a 10-15 minute ride. You might have to remove the tank and connect your remote tank, like you are goint to sync the carbs, but, with the bike running, adjust the idle speed to 1000-1100 rpm, slowly turn the mixture screw in until the bike begins to stumble a little. Slowly turn the screw back out, listening for the highest rpm. Repeat this for the other three carbs, adjusting the idle speed back to your starting value, if necessary after each carb.

.
 
There are two screws that control mixture; one is the fuel screw on the bottom of each carb. If your bike is completely stock in the fuel and air system, they might be covered with black plastic caps. If I'm not mistaken, those are the screws you ballpark a 2-2.5 turns from lightly seated. The air screws, on the side of each carb, is the one you adjust for max rpm, one carb at a time. So let's make sure which ones you are adjusting. Now, I've never done a vacuum sync, but I'm preparing to, and I have a manometer. I'm probably about 2-3 miles from you, and I'm still out this week on disability, so I'm around during the days. If going to Duane's is too far (he surely has done this procedure before, so he does have experience, so it might be worth a drive to Wilmington), give me a holler. Have you bench-synced the carbs? That would require removing the carbs, most likely, so keep that in mind as far as logistics of riding the bike back to storage. If you HAVE bench-synced them, once your valves are set, we can probably figure out the vacuum sync.
 
Can I only get this at bike shops? Can I get this or something similar at an auto place?

I used Hi tack # 97 on these parts and the gasket, it works for me and doesn't leak. Available at pep boys or other places, made by permatex
 
perfect!!!

thanks daunage, I'll look for that at pepboys after work today

I just sent you a PM too.!! thanks!!!
 
If going to Duane's is too far (he surely has done this procedure before, so he does have experience, so it might be worth a drive to Wilmington), give me a holler. Have you bench-synced the carbs? That would require removing the carbs, most likely, so keep that in mind as far as logistics of riding the bike back to storage. If you HAVE bench-synced them, once your valves are set, we can probably figure out the vacuum sync.

Thanks for the offer!!! I'm going to take a shot at riding to dauanges for the synch. We have the same bike, and he has done this before. Let's take a ride sometime though. I live off of lincoln drive!
 
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