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First, let me say I do own a Suzuki GS, but my current problem is with my wife's 1989 Kawasaki El250 eliminator. Hopefully the question I have is generic enough, and ya'll are generous enough so I can get some help and direction. That way she can go riding with me, so . . .
Originally, the bike had a big dead spot in the low to mid rpm band, although without a tach, I'm guessing on rpms. Found that the airbox boots to the carbs had been cut and jury-rigged, so those were replaced. At the same time I disassembled the carbs and did a minor cleanup with spray carb, some dip, and air compressor, but no parts replaced. It was not dirty, and the parts all looked good. Set the pilot screws to the same as it was 2.5 turns out. Ran like dog poo at all speeds and had no top end.
Replaced the plugs with correct ones, left was sooty and fouled, right was fine. Synched the carbs and it revs sweet when it isn't in gear. However, on the highway, it still has some hesitation particularly at operating temperature, and the last 40% of the throttle does nothing. It tops out on the flat at 55 mph, and definitely isn't running over maybe 5k rpm. It is running much better though.
Bike has a little over 31,000 miles on it and appears to have been garaged it's whole life. It is cosmetically in very good shape and has never been laid down that I can see.
So I need some advice on where to go next. Here are some areas I am looking at:
The air filter has been replaced with a K&N by the PO. The filter is oval cartridge with seals on both ends. I don't think it's supposed to be oiled and it isn't.
There are no air leaks from the airbox to the carbs or from the carbs to the engine, verified by spraying carb cleaner on all junctions.
I checked the resistance of the ignition coils. I have to use a Kaw manual for the '87 and '88 Ninja 250, which use the same engine, but they aren't exact by any means. For example, I can't test the ignitor because the connections aren't as illustrated in the manual. Unfortunately, there isn't a manual for the el250 available to my knowledge. Anyway, the resistance is listed as 2.1-3.2 ohms in the manual and two different meters I have range between 3.2 and 3.6 ohms for both coils, fluctuating up and down and never settling. Secondary resistance through the coil and plug wire is supposed to be between 12 and 16k ohms, and both meters show both coils over 19k.
The engine has manually adjustable valves, but since it is water cooled, the procedure to get to them is pretty technical. I would like to tackle this as a last resort, and really am wondering if mis-adjusted valves could cause that problem. How likely is it that the valves are the issue, in other words?
I purchased carb kits for the two carbs and am planning on tearing them down again and replacing the o-ring for the air screw, etc. What part of the carb would be the most likely cause for no top end? I'm thinking main jet or float needle, but I am very much an amateur. I have replacement parts in the kits for every part, but although they are made in Japan, they aren't Kawasaki parts.
Any advice on these possibilities would be greatly appreciated. As soon as I get this bike running, I can work on my GS, so you can see how this post is GS related, can't you?
Originally, the bike had a big dead spot in the low to mid rpm band, although without a tach, I'm guessing on rpms. Found that the airbox boots to the carbs had been cut and jury-rigged, so those were replaced. At the same time I disassembled the carbs and did a minor cleanup with spray carb, some dip, and air compressor, but no parts replaced. It was not dirty, and the parts all looked good. Set the pilot screws to the same as it was 2.5 turns out. Ran like dog poo at all speeds and had no top end.
Replaced the plugs with correct ones, left was sooty and fouled, right was fine. Synched the carbs and it revs sweet when it isn't in gear. However, on the highway, it still has some hesitation particularly at operating temperature, and the last 40% of the throttle does nothing. It tops out on the flat at 55 mph, and definitely isn't running over maybe 5k rpm. It is running much better though.
Bike has a little over 31,000 miles on it and appears to have been garaged it's whole life. It is cosmetically in very good shape and has never been laid down that I can see.
So I need some advice on where to go next. Here are some areas I am looking at:
The air filter has been replaced with a K&N by the PO. The filter is oval cartridge with seals on both ends. I don't think it's supposed to be oiled and it isn't.
There are no air leaks from the airbox to the carbs or from the carbs to the engine, verified by spraying carb cleaner on all junctions.
I checked the resistance of the ignition coils. I have to use a Kaw manual for the '87 and '88 Ninja 250, which use the same engine, but they aren't exact by any means. For example, I can't test the ignitor because the connections aren't as illustrated in the manual. Unfortunately, there isn't a manual for the el250 available to my knowledge. Anyway, the resistance is listed as 2.1-3.2 ohms in the manual and two different meters I have range between 3.2 and 3.6 ohms for both coils, fluctuating up and down and never settling. Secondary resistance through the coil and plug wire is supposed to be between 12 and 16k ohms, and both meters show both coils over 19k.
The engine has manually adjustable valves, but since it is water cooled, the procedure to get to them is pretty technical. I would like to tackle this as a last resort, and really am wondering if mis-adjusted valves could cause that problem. How likely is it that the valves are the issue, in other words?
I purchased carb kits for the two carbs and am planning on tearing them down again and replacing the o-ring for the air screw, etc. What part of the carb would be the most likely cause for no top end? I'm thinking main jet or float needle, but I am very much an amateur. I have replacement parts in the kits for every part, but although they are made in Japan, they aren't Kawasaki parts.
Any advice on these possibilities would be greatly appreciated. As soon as I get this bike running, I can work on my GS, so you can see how this post is GS related, can't you?
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