For those not familiar with my current plight, here is the thread:
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Update: Still no engine speed over 2K RPM
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egent
Update: Still no engine speed over 2K RPM
I replaced the fuel line this morning to remove the fuel filter from the bike. Started the bike on choke after putting the bike back together, when I turned off the choke bike would idle at about 1100 rpm, I could rev the engine to about 2K. When I would release the throttle, engine would drop to about 1500 rpm then slowly work down to 1100 again. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
For those not familiar with my current plight, here is the thread:
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35607
- Torrance, CA
Sounds like your carbs are not getting enough fuel. Maybe a petcock issue? Pull off the lines and check the petcock function. Also make sure your tank is properly venting. Search function will turn up lots of different threads on how to check these items.
Good luck.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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If you have access to an igniter try to switch them out. (Not to light the bike on fire but the ignition igniter)
Do you have an electronic advance or mechanical.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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egent
Test update
Ok, after seeing the first post and doing a search I tried to remove the fuel cap and run the bike. I started the bike, and this made no difference. I then put the petcock on prime from run, again could not rev the engine over 2k rpm.
When you say try replacing the igniter, do you mean the CDI unit? If so, is there another way to test, as I don't have access to one other then the one of the bike.
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egent
bump
Still trying to find out what this issue is. So I am trying to get this post on the first page.
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egent
Originally posted by tkent02 View PostIf it only runs while idling, or with the choke on, maybe all the other carb circuits are clogged?
Main and needle jets, lots of tiny passages can get gooped up.
I removed the fuel filter, per suggestions in the first post on this issue. This seems to have made no difference. I tried without the fuel cap on the bike to rule out the tank vent being the issue. I tried the petcock on both prime and on, this made no difference either. One thing I didn't try was to disconnect the vacuum line from the petcock and plug it to prevent lean running while on prime. I will try that tomorrow I guess along with any other suggestions I can get from this posting.
Again, for those not up to speed, the bike is an 82 gs1100gl 25k miles, replaced wiring harness , fuse box and starter clutch/rotor assembly. New parts include stator, both handle bar switches and r/r. Bike was bought in November with 23.5k on the clock.
Again I want to thank everyone for their help.
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cmart45
lose of power
If you have the advance spark counter weights,remove the right cover and remove the spark generator plate and check to see if you can spring the weights. Rust from condensation can freeze up the pivots and springs.They should spring back and fourth.
Hope this helps. Dirty carbs
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egent
Originally posted by cmart45 View PostIf you have the advance spark counter weights,remove the right cover and remove the spark generator plate and check to see if you can spring the weights. Rust from condensation can freeze up the pivots and springs.They should spring back and fourth.
Hope this helps. Dirty carbs
I can't tell, does my model have a machanical advance, or is it built into the CDI unit( labeled 1 in picture)
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Nope you have an electronic advance.
I would check the igniter next.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Johnny K
For the heck of it, put in some Seafoam :-D. Solves a lot of problems if you havent already done that.
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Schweisshund
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egent
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostNope you have an electronic advance.
I would check the igniter next.
Is there a way to go about testing the unit? I don't have an other one currently on hand to just swap out as a test, and at $400+ I am not going to buy one if I don't know for sure that it is no good.
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egent
Originally posted by Johnny K View PostFor the heck of it, put in some Seafoam :-D. Solves a lot of problems if you havent already done that.
Originally posted by Schweisshund View PostHow long has it been since you have synchronized your carburetors?
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egent
Update
Ok, I pulled the vacuum hose from the petcock, started the bike. Made no difference to the way the bike as been running, other then it is going back to intermittent. I would be able to get the bike to rev though the RPM range, but then it would bog down and max out 2k - 3k. I also checked the connections to the CDI, they seem to be tight.
Does anyone know if a way to test the CDI other then just swapping out the unit? I don't have $400 to buy a new unit, and going to a bone yard doesn't guarantee a working unit.
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