R/R toasted or grouding problem?

[bakalorz]

Thanks so much. That's definitely a possibility. It seems a little better than before, so it might be a combination of the two. Perhaps I should get some tinner's fluid or whatever that stuff's called? Shouldn't that clear up any corrosion that may exist and open the door to better connectivity? I got a new soldering iron tip so I'm willing to try that as well.

Just took the bike on a 20 minute spin. As soon as I parked I took the seat off and checked the wires; they felt reasonable. The battery went from 12.63 before to 12.76 after.

Well, I'm not familiar with the tinner's fluid , so can't say either way.

Regarding soldering ... The absolute first step when you are soldering is to have clean bright metal and a good close mechanical connection.
If you don't have the metal clean first, the solder won't wet it.

I've soldered 3 connections on my bike where crimps would have been too bulky. I've done a LOT more with unsoldered crimp connections.
I have advocated pretty strongly against soldering in this thread, especially for people who are not already experienced solderers.

I'll guess you don't have much experience soldering.
It sounds like the wire is possibly corroded/degraded
As such, I suspect it will prove more frustrating than helpful.

If the connections are still a problem (and it sounds like you may have ended up fixing it by mating/unmating)
I would probably recomend cutting the affected wires back a few inches, and then using crimp connectors to extend them and connect them.
Although I don't know that I would bother with the extra expense, there are sealed/waterproof crimp connectors available. (perhaps called marine use, intended to be used on boats)

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The voltage readings indicate that the battery is charging while you ride. Perhaps not as much as it should; but charging slightly, not discharging.

I can't say I recommend that you ride it till it is charging "properly" ... however... I rode my 650 for over a year with only 2 legs of the stator working
I would put it on the charger before I rode and after I came back. The battery was way to weak to start it, even after it just came off the charger.
So I got VERY good at push-starting it.
But don't do that ... fix it properly ... do as I say, not as I do ... \\/

[J_C]

Hahaha. OK Thanks for all your help Martin. It's very possible this info will help many many people down the line when performing searches on similar issues. As such, I am going to do what you recommend with the wires. Hopefully it will result in a healthier charging system in the end.

Again, thanks for your help is this long and meandering thread.

[J_C]

I just wanted to give an update on this.... I found a lot of corrosion inside the main battery lead, as well as the ground wire. This was a result of following Martin's advice to look for corrosion. I started at the statpr wires and worked all the way through. As soon as I started sanding the battery leads, the voltage shot up. I purchased replacemnent battery terminals and I'm proud to report a 13.8 to 14v range, from idle straight to 6000 rpm. Thank you Martin, thank you all!

[nathan12]

mine was doing that and blowing the main fuse every 5 seconds. It was the regulator rectifier which in turn fried the stator. good luck.