GS Igniters

[Anonymous]

:?
I have a 83 GS 550 ESD and a 79 GS 850. Both recently refurbished for the street. The igniter on the 550 is intermittent and replacements are rare. Are there substitutes from other Suzuki models/years or after market. Igniter desperate!!
Lee

[SqDancerLynn1]

Best thing to do is replace the complete ignition with a Dyna S

[Anonymous]

Agreed then you can kiss your ignition problems good-bye forever.

[Anonymous]

o.k.....stupid question time.....what exactly does the igniter unit do? I assume it has something to do with the coils and eventally spark, but i am basically ignorant on it.

[Anonymous]

its the ignition module thingy

[Anonymous]

o.k.....stupid question time.....what exactly does the igniter unit do? I assume it has something to do with the coils and eventally spark, but i am basically ignorant on it.

The ignitor listens to the timing signal off the right hand side of the motor, and sends a more powerful signal to the coil, so it can send an even more powerful signal to the plug, so it can send an even more powerful signal to the air/fuel mixture, so it can send an even more (again) powerful signal to the top of the piston, so it can send the most powerful signal possible to the crankshaft, so it can send a slightly less powerful signal to the gearbox, so it can send a slightly less powerful signal to the chain, so it can send a slightly less powerful (again) signal to the rear wheel and move the bike along, so it can send a powerful signal to the rider's adrenaline centre.

Got all that?

As you can see the ignitor is almost the most important part of the bike. :-)

The signal from the induction unit (what used to be the points) is very slight. The ignitor boosts it to a high current but low voltage signal to power the low side of the coil. The coil converts this to the high voltage low current signal that the plug needs.

Kim

[Anonymous]

My 400s ignition advance is covered by the ignitor as well. I think some of the bikes have the ignitor and a mechanical advance on the crankshaft.

Steve

[Anonymous]

I'd go for the Dyna S if you can, but I to a bike boneyard and got a set of points and condensers and eliminated the electronic system. PM me if you want more info.

[Anonymous]

hmmmm....o.k., so, assuming the carbs are set correctly and the coils are good....could a faulty/intermitent ignitor unit possibly cause the plugs to foul slightly after 50 to 100 miles at highway speed (55-65mph)?

[earlfor]

Yes, it certainly could, or if the spark is weak it could cause plugs to foul.

Earl

hmmmm....o.k., so, assuming the carbs are set correctly and the coils are good....could a faulty/intermitent ignitor unit possibly cause the plugs to foul slightly after 50 to 100 miles at highway speed (55-65mph)?

[Anonymous]

o.k. Earl...

next stupid question: What would cause A weak spark? This is assuming that the wires are all good. It doesn't seem to be one plug or another, it's even across all four of them. The local shop made sure the carbs are correctly, and checked to make sure they were in synched. The problem before happened at around twenty to thirty miles at highway speed, now it's at around 100 miles and not nearly as bad. Changing/cleaning the plugs makes it go like heck. And since the problem has gotten progressivley better, I'm not exactly ready to retire the old girl just yet. (Oh yeah, and I'm pretty sure that the shaft drive isn't robbing this little bit of performance. )

[earlfor]

It is puzzling that the problem has gotten progressively better. Usually, once an electronic device starts to fail, it gets worse and worse. I've not known one that decided to "get well". :-) My hunch is that your problem is not the ignitor unit. I'm asking myself what is there on the bike that will have an equal effect on all cylinders. Some thoughts....
1. a battery that is in a low state of charge or will not hold a normal full charge.
2. corroded connectors in the wiring harness. Particularly the ignition circuits and the fuse box. Wires that feel hard or brittle will have abnormally high resistance and will lower voltage available.
3. corroded grounds
4. corroded barrery terminals
5. old spark plug boots that have developed abnornally high resistance
6. Dirty or clogged aircleaner

There arent that many things that will have an equal effect on all four spark plugs .

Earl

o.k. Earl...

next stupid question: What would cause A weak spark? This is assuming that the wires are all good. It doesn't seem to be one plug or another, it's even across all four of them. The local shop made sure the carbs are correctly, and checked to make sure they were in synched. The problem before happened at around twenty to thirty miles at highway speed, now it's at around 100 miles and not nearly as bad. Changing/cleaning the plugs makes it go like heck. And since the problem has gotten progressivley better, I'm not exactly ready to retire the old girl just yet. (Oh yeah, and I'm pretty sure that the shaft drive isn't robbing this little bit of performance. )

[Anonymous]

o.k. Earl...

next stupid question: What would cause A weak spark? This is assuming that the wires are all good. It doesn't seem to be one plug or another, it's even across all four of them. The local shop made sure the carbs are correctly, and checked to make sure they were in synched. The problem before happened at around twenty to thirty miles at highway speed, now it's at around 100 miles and not nearly as bad. Changing/cleaning the plugs makes it go like heck. And since the problem has gotten progressivley better, I'm not exactly ready to retire the old girl just yet. (Oh yeah, and I'm pretty sure that the shaft drive isn't robbing this little bit of performance. )

Try a hotter plug range. Go to nines instead of eights. This will increase the combustion environment a little and burn off the carbon.

You might also try changing the brand of fuel you are using. Some brands are better than others in certain motors - at least that's how it works here in Oz.

Also give it a dose of good quality fuel system cleaner for two or three tankfuls.

Don't do all these at once, or you won't be able to check what, if any of them, is making a difference.

Kim

[Anonymous]

Well, guys, the problem started off with a homemade stage three type kit apparently(done by the original owner, not me), so the major problem was the carbs to begin with, I did everything except the "needles" because I couldn't reach the snap rings, got the dealer to do that and double check my settings and check for synch. Last weekend at about 100 miles there was a very slight hesitation or "jitter" that felt like the kids version of the original horrendous problem. Cleaned the plugs and it went back to running fine...but I don't want to be doing this every 100 miles. So you see, I'm not speculating that an electrical problem has gotten better, just that it may have been a part of the entire original problem, which has gotten progressively better at each step.

[earlfor]

I thought Kim had some good ideas and I would try those things first.
(one at a time) It will only cost you some time ..primarily.
If none of them help the situation, I would consider lowering my needles one clip.

Earl

Well, guys, the problem started off with a homemade stage three type kit apparently(done by the original owner, not me), so the major problem was the carbs to begin with, I did everything except the "needles" because I couldn't reach the snap rings, got the dealer to do that and double check my settings and check for synch. Last weekend at about 100 miles there was a very slight hesitation or "jitter" that felt like the kids version of the original horrendous problem. Cleaned the plugs and it went back to running fine...but I don't want to be doing this every 100 miles. So you see, I'm not speculating that an electrical problem has gotten better, just that it may have been a part of the entire original problem, which has gotten progressively better at each step.