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I can't get my bike started.
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JCG
I can't get my bike started.
A couple of weeks ago I purchased a 1983 GS550ES with a mere 4,000 miles on it as my first motorcycle. I have been riding it without any problems but yesterday when I started my bike to let it warm up I closed the choke before it was ready for it and it died on me. Normally this isn't an issue, I open the choke back up and let the bike run for another 30 seconds or so and its fine, but this time the bike wouldn't start up again. I tried to get it running today and it still wouldn't start. The plugs are firing and when I shift into 1st gear and try to start the bike inches forward for a second. I would give you more details but I don't know much about motorcycles in regards to how everything works.Tags: None
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LarryA_Texas
sounds like it's out of gas. Try it on reserve. Are you sure the vacuum hose didn't come off the petcock? Then check the fuel lines for a kink. After that you should be looking for fuel flow by checking the line to make sure fuel is getting into the carbs.
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BassCliff
Hee Haw Howdy!
Hi Mr. JCG,
Do you have a manual for your bike? Stop by my website and get one. There not quite enough information to go on, but the usual suspects are the carbs, leaky intake system, valve clearances, and charging system. There's more reference material here in your very own mega-welcome! \\/
Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!
Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.
These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:
Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
***********************************
Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.
These common issues are:
1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:
I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.
Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:
http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:
GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
Aftermarket Motorsport Electrics parts for motorcycles, dirtbikes, atvs, motosport vehicles manufactured and distributed by Rick's Motorsport Electrics
For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):
http://www.realgaskets.com
The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Carolina Cycle
http://www.carolinacycle.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Used bike buying checklists:
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)
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BassCliff
Oh yeah. I forgot to mention the petcock. Good call there Mr. LarryA_Texas.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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JCG
Originally posted by LarryA_Texas View Postsounds like it's out of gas. Try it on reserve. Are you sure the vacuum hose didn't come off the petcock? Then check the fuel lines for a kink. After that you should be looking for fuel flow by checking the line to make sure fuel is getting into the carbs.Last edited by Guest; 05-10-2008, 06:08 PM.
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Craiger
Should be on the back of the petcock and leading to the second carb from the left side. One raise of the tank can sometimes pull it off the petcock....thus keeping the bike from starting as the carbs need the vacuum for fuel.
If you only have one tube connected to the petcock, this could be your problem. One is for vacuum, the other is for fuel.
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BassCliff
Try these pictures
Hi Mr. JCG,
If your petcock looks like this, the upper (smaller) hose is for vacuum and the lower (larger) is for fuel.
Since these petcocks are vacuum operated, there is no "OFF" position. Gas will flow in the ON and RES position only when the engine is running. The PRI position allows fuel to flow via gravity (without vacuum). Use this position to "prime" the carbs, filling the float bowls, and turn off after a minute or so. Do not leave your petcock in this PRI position or you could get gas in your oil and experience other maladies.
Here is a view of the #2 carb and its connections (Note, #1 is on the left as you sit on the bike).
In addition to the vacuum and fuel connections, your carb rack also has two vent hose connections. One you see between the #1 and #2 carb. The other is between the #3 and #4 carb. These vent hoses just lay over and behind the airbox out of turbulent air. See the picture below.
Now, did you get to my website and download a manual? It's amazing how much you can learn just by reading. :-D
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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Craiger
Great explanation, Basscliff.
JCG,
How are things going? Was there anything in particular that you did between the time you tried to start it with the choke on before it died and the time after?
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Nice Cliff!1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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JCG
Originally posted by Craiger View PostGreat explanation, Basscliff.
JCG,
How are things going? Was there anything in particular that you did between the time you tried to start it with the choke on before it died and the time after?
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Is the starter turning?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Since you say you have spark I'd tear those carbs apart and clean them.
1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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