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    #16
    Originally posted by robertbarr View Post
    Here, re-read this:




    You're dealing with a bike that's about 30 years old. (I didn't find the year mentioned in this thread).

    How old are the intake O-rings? If you DON'T know, then any effort OTHER THAN replacing them is wasted.

    There's only one sequence that makes sense, if you want to solve this. If you want to just horse around, that's fine. Your bike. If you want this dealt with, you have to have a solidly sealed intake, clean carbs, proper valve lash and THEN a carb sync.
    I agree with Robert, change the o-rings pronto - including the ones inside the carbs as well.

    The way to a reliable bike is to do the basic maintenance - and that includes changing all the old rotted o-rings. If they are not leaking now (and I strongly suspect they are), they will be soon so just get busy.:shock:
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by robertbarr View Post
      Here, re-read this:




      You're dealing with a bike that's about 30 years old. (I didn't find the year mentioned in this thread).

      How old are the intake O-rings? If you DON'T know, then any effort OTHER THAN replacing them is wasted.

      There's only one sequence that makes sense, if you want to solve this. If you want to just horse around, that's fine. Your bike. If you want this dealt with, you have to have a solidly sealed intake, clean carbs, proper valve lash and THEN a carb sync.
      Its an 82 850G. And yeah Pauly i have to agree with them. Its not an exacting test, and no result doesnt prove anything, but its one way to SHOW you that they are leaking. Robert here has all the orings you'll need from his www.cycleorings.com site, and they are a VERY good price. I think that i bought them, and the ss bolt set for the boots for less than 15 bucks, and that included the carb orings too. Actually ive bought MANY sets of carb rings from him, as has Cole. SOOoo, i suggest picking them up. And also, when money permits, order yourself a valve cover gasket from Z1Enterprises. You'll need it to do your valves. If your valves havent been adjusted then you're going to end up chasing your tail. Seriously bro, for as much good as you have done by me, LET ME come down one day, give me 5-6 hours of your time, and we can have your valves adjusted, intake sealed, and then possibly do something about the carbs. Im talkin I will do this for no charge at all my friend. I just want to get you runnin again. Thats too pretty a bike, and you've put alot of work into that paint to not be able to enjoy it. I'll bring tools, shims, a can of Berrymans and we can do it bro. You wont be disappointed. I know you are a busy busy man, but im sure at some point we could work out a day that works for both of us.

      Comment


        #18
        Josh, I think I'll take you up on this soon. As for the current troubles, they're on the "liitle bike", the 82 GS450T. But, having said that, I'll take all the advice given and order up carb kits for it today. Thanx guys fr the input.

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          #19
          I have a 450T as well. And the idle does have some variance as the bike warms up. But I've found that I can compensate for it using the idle adjust screw. I take it that's not helping in your case.

          Comment


            #20
            I haven't fooled with that yet. Although, since nothing has been done to the carbs, exhaust or air supply, I don't see where thaty would come into play.

            Comment


              #21
              Just to clarify: the idle adjustment screw (also called the throttle adjuster) is between the two carbs and you can reach between and behind the carbs to adjust it by hand. I'm pretty sure it's meant to be adjusted as needed based on the bike's operating temperature as it's relatively easy to adjust while you're riding.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by matt_gs450 View Post
                Just to clarify: the idle adjustment screw (also called the throttle adjuster) is between the two carbs and you can reach between and behind the carbs to adjust it by hand. I'm pretty sure it's meant to be adjusted as needed based on the bike's operating temperature as it's relatively easy to adjust while you're riding.
                If your idle speed is increasing more than a couple hundred rpm than something is wrong with your bike. Air leaks are the number one reason followed by pilot screw adjustment issues - too lean, and sync problems. Not sure but you may be accepting something that can be fixed.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by matt_gs450 View Post
                  I have a 450T as well. And the idle does have some variance as the bike warms up. But I've found that I can compensate for it using the idle adjust screw. I take it that's not helping in your case.
                  Well, Matt, when my son got home from the 1st day at his summer job, I asked him to go through again what he did before the idling issues began, or after he 1st noticed them. Whenhe called me from school several weeks ago and told me of the problem, I went thru trying to describe to him on the phone where the throttle cable linked to the rail for the carbs, thinking that somehow something had eother come loose or bound up. It turns out that what he was fooling with when we were on the phone WAS the idle adjustment screw. So, this evening, right at darkfall, I strated the bike up again and let it run for several minutes. Sure enoiugh, when I started to play with the screw, I got it to idle much more smoothly and at a tame 12-1500 rpm. I still probably have air leaks, and I've already ordered parts, but right now his choices are A. ride a 15 speed 24 miles round trip every day to work and back, which would be easy for him (he's doing a 50 mile marathon this weekend in St. Louis)
                  B. keep driving the 94 full size Bronco in town (10 mpg if he's coasting halfway)
                  C. use the motorcycle.
                  Hmmmmmmmmmm.........

                  Comment


                    #24
                    WD40 with a long red tube spout is the best troubleshooting tool you can have for finding vacuum leaks in the carburation area. Just spray the entire area you suspect the leak is. My situation was old and cracked
                    carb boots. All of them were hardened, cracked, and were no good.

                    The idle should race-up in RPMs once the leak sucks in the flammable WD40 liquid into the combustion chamber. Soapy water serves no purpose since vacuum will suck the water in and rust the inside of
                    the carbs and or cylinder. Water will not burn, nor is it a fuel !!

                    Goodluck to you !!

                    :-D\\/

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