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Carb Synching how much should it cost? 81 gs650

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    #16
    Honestly, If those guys cant do a carb synch they are not bike mechanics.
    I quit going to dealers for mechanical work a long time ago because everytime
    they "fixed" something, I had to take the bike home and do it myself anyway.

    Earl

    Originally posted by catbed View Post
    talked to two mechanics about my GS, both wouldnt work on it because it had carbs. i plan on purchasing a morgan carbtune soon. i lead a VERY DIY lifestyle.
    Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

    I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

    Comment


      #17
      I just did Maro's 650G on Saturday. He said it rode like a new bike afterwards. He just rebuilt the carbs and they were all over the place. Number 4 was way up there.

      It is a bit tricky and patience is required. Slight movements of the screws cause the readings to jump but after a while they settle down. I spent about an hour on it and we got it pretty darn close.

      Hey catbed, if you make a pilgrimage to Wilmington I'll show you how to synch the carbs on your 850. That's a nice bike and I'd like to see it.
      1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
      1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

      Comment


        #18
        waterman: i would love to take you up on it but im afraid i wont be of any help. i am not that mechanically inclined and wouold say you would be dooing the most work.lol

        As for a seperate issue when i look straight at the bike from the front tire looking towards the back, it looks like the second tube from left to right is a different color and i think they said is running lean and was told that this is normal for this bike? Anyone else can confirm this?

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by tsunamimike View Post

          As for a seperate issue when i look straight at the bike from the front tire looking towards the back, it looks like the second tube from left to right is a different color and i think they said is running lean and was told that this is normal for this bike? Anyone else can confirm this?
          If #2 is running lean look at the vacuum line going to petcock and see if it leaks, also check the float levels. It isn't normal for one carb to run leaner than the others.
          1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
          1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

          Comment


            #20
            The local Yamaha / Suzuki of Texas, in DFW area, told me they wouldn't touch a bike more than 10 years old. If they don't want to work on it, frankly, I don't want them to.

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by earlfor View Post
              Honestly, If those guys cant do a carb synch they are not bike mechanics.
              I quit going to dealers for mechanical work a long time ago because everytime
              they "fixed" something, I had to take the bike home and do it myself anyway.

              Earl
              only reason i went to them is because i am friendly with them, well one of them. i wasnt actually serious about them doing work on it, just wondering if they had ideas. i have since cured my carb problems though, except for syncing.

              duneage: i would love to make that pilgrimage but if you take a long hard look at my profile, you'll see as to why i am unable.8-[

              Comment


                #22
                Why would anyone take their classic bike to the dealer with a
                ****can attitude of rejection and not working on bikes 10-15
                years old ?? If they do not want to service your needs, you
                walk and do it yourself. Why spend good money ??

                With this excellent website and technical personnel of the highest
                caluber, you don't need the dealer. Most everyone on this GS
                website are technical savvy and are do-it-yourselfers....and they
                are there for YOU !!

                Good people offering you the best to support your classic bike.
                Just read this subject column under technical info and you will
                gain so much knowledge you will understand and appeciate your
                machine more. I believe everyone should be self-reliant on repairing
                their own machine. Who is going to service your needs when you
                are alone on a ride in the country and dead in the water ?? Surely
                not your neighborhood Suzuki dealer !!

                Get to know your machine, and have that tinkerer and engineer
                inside of you flourish. Don't be afraid to open this and that to gain
                insight on how and why your particular machine reacts the way it
                does. I believe in hands-on and reading from the factory manual
                and tearing into it to gain insight of how it was constructed with
                the mindset of the design engineers. This will give you the backbone
                of their thinking - "what the hell were they thinking" or "ingenious
                design" !! I've seen total crap to enginuity, and you wonder who
                approved of this garbage to begin with ??

                I also believe in innovation, with great design and simplicity in mind.
                Once you understand the basics in electricity and mechanical motion,
                all this maintenance falls into place. You don't need to pay anyone,
                you have a great mind of your own. Just keep asking and you shall
                receive what you are looking for.

                The carb synchronization is very easy. Normally there is a fixed throttle
                body that is used as a reference......usually #3. This is fixed and non-adjustible. It is used as a reference so #1,#2, and #4 are matched with it. On the GS1100s, the outer carbs #1 and #4 are slightly higher in vacuum than the #2 and #3 inners. (rated in inches of Mercury).

                With all of the fittings in-place, and all of the hoses attached, you
                start the bike, and adjust the carbs via the mechanical screws on
                each throttle body (wit reference to #3) so that the outer carb
                vacuum is higher than the inner carb vacuum by 1 bar or slightly less inches of Mercury. Once you have it dialed-in at idle, you rev it in
                higher RPMs to see if they are the same at 1000-1500 rpms. It shoud
                be the same or close to it. Have a fan blow against the engine so
                it can cool while you do your carb synch.

                As a reference, turn your air/fuel mixture screw clockwise (CW) until
                it seats, then back counterslockwise (CCW) 1.5 turns. Depending on
                your model, it could be 2 turns. It is better to run rich than lean. An
                exhaust analyzer would be great if everybody had one. You can read
                your plugs by removing them, cleaning them, and to adjust according.
                You are seeking a nice tan color on the electrodes for a clean thorough combustion.

                If you've never rebuilt carburetors, I would recommend doing so. It is
                a great learning experience. I would attribute 90% of all performance
                issues are related to the carbs. That is my personal belief as some
                could tell you otherwise. A simple design yet practical. The electronics
                rarely goes out, but if it does, it is usually the RR. This is a Suzuki design flaw in the rectification and voltage regulation of AC to DC. That is why there are many aftermarket RRs and pulse generator replacements.

                Anyways, goodluck to you. You'll be in good hands here with the many
                great GS Brothers by your side.

                KT :-D\\/



                burn see black carbon....too rich, or





                nd

                Comment


                  #23
                  gday mate, two guys would not work on your bike because it had carbs, guess what, they are an insult to the mechanical world, obviously would rather plug in a wire to a fuel computer, very sad, regards.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    carb sync.

                    Originally posted by catbed View Post
                    talked to two mechanics about my GS, both wouldnt work on it because it had carbs. i plan on purchasing a morgan carbtune soon. i lead a VERY DIY lifestyle.
                    Originally posted by jadesystem View Post
                    Why would anyone take their classic bike to the dealer with a
                    ****can attitude of rejection and not working on bikes 10-15
                    years old ?? If they do not want to service your needs, you
                    walk and do it yourself. Why spend good money ??

                    With this excellent website and technical personnel of the highest
                    caluber, you don't need the dealer. Most everyone on this GS
                    website are technical savvy and are do-it-yourselfers....and they
                    are there for YOU !!

                    Good people offering you the best to support your classic bike.
                    Just read this subject column under technical info and you will
                    gain so much knowledge you will understand and appeciate your
                    machine more. I believe everyone should be self-reliant on repairing
                    their own machine. Who is going to service your needs when you
                    are alone on a ride in the country and dead in the water ?? Surely
                    not your neighborhood Suzuki dealer !!

                    Get to know your machine, and have that tinkerer and engineer
                    inside of you flourish. Don't be afraid to open this and that to gain
                    insight on how and why your particular machine reacts the way it
                    does. I believe in hands-on and reading from the factory manual
                    and tearing into it to gain insight of how it was constructed with
                    the mindset of the design engineers. This will give you the backbone
                    of their thinking - "what the hell were they thinking" or "ingenious
                    design" !! I've seen total crap to enginuity, and you wonder who
                    approved of this garbage to begin with ??

                    I also believe in innovation, with great design and simplicity in mind.
                    Once you understand the basics in electricity and mechanical motion,
                    all this maintenance falls into place. You don't need to pay anyone,
                    you have a great mind of your own. Just keep asking and you shall
                    receive what you are looking for.

                    The carb synchronization is very easy. Normally there is a fixed throttle
                    body that is used as a reference......usually #3. This is fixed and non-adjustible. It is used as a reference so #1,#2, and #4 are matched with it. On the GS1100s, the outer carbs #1 and #4 are slightly higher in vacuum than the #2 and #3 inners. (rated in inches of Mercury).

                    With all of the fittings in-place, and all of the hoses attached, you
                    start the bike, and adjust the carbs via the mechanical screws on
                    each throttle body (wit reference to #3) so that the outer carb
                    vacuum is higher than the inner carb vacuum by 1 bar or slightly less inches of Mercury. Once you have it dialed-in at idle, you rev it in
                    higher RPMs to see if they are the same at 1000-1500 rpms. It shoud
                    be the same or close to it. Have a fan blow against the engine so
                    it can cool while you do your carb synch.

                    As a reference, turn your air/fuel mixture screw clockwise (CW) until
                    it seats, then back counterslockwise (CCW) 1.5 turns. Depending on
                    your model, it could be 2 turns. It is better to run rich than lean. An
                    exhaust analyzer would be great if everybody had one. You can read
                    your plugs by removing them, cleaning them, and to adjust according.
                    You are seeking a nice tan color on the electrodes for a clean thorough combustion.

                    If you've never rebuilt carburetors, I would recommend doing so. It is
                    a great learning experience. I would attribute 90% of all performance
                    issues are related to the carbs. That is my personal belief as some
                    could tell you otherwise. A simple design yet practical. The electronics
                    rarely goes out, but if it does, it is usually the RR. This is a Suzuki design flaw in the rectification and voltage regulation of AC to DC. That is why there are many aftermarket RRs and pulse generator replacements.

                    Anyways, goodluck to you. You'll be in good hands here with the many
                    great GS Brothers by your side.

                    KT :-D\\/



                    burn see black carbon....too rich, or





                    nd
                    gday mate, good referance, one thing when using manometers, they have a balance screw on each tube or gauge, you need to run the bike and put the hose from each meter on the no.1. cylinder and adjust the meter till it stays steady, with little fluctuation,then connect them to their cylinders, then adjust , refer to the suzuki workshop manual, regartds.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by mac1170 View Post
                      ... one thing when using manometers, they have a balance screw on each tube or gauge, you need to run the bike and put the hose from each meter on the no.1. cylinder and adjust the meter till it stays steady, with little fluctuation,then connect them to their cylinders, ...
                      What is actually done is to connect all the tubes to a manifold so they are all reading the same vacuum source at the same time. This is done to make sure the gauges are calibrated to each other and are reading the same. If you have actual mercury sticks, this is not necessary, but mercury sticks are getting harder and harder to find.

                      .
                      sigpic
                      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                      Family Portrait
                      Siblings and Spouses
                      Mom's first ride
                      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by LarryA_Texas View Post
                        The local Yamaha / Suzuki of Texas, in DFW area, told me they wouldn't touch a bike more than 10 years old. If they don't want to work on it, frankly, I don't want them to.
                        That's the rule not the exception. Almst no dealerships will work on them. Some are lucky (like me) to have an old school indy shop in town (source for valve shims, go some junk GS bikes out back, etc...), but I still do the work myself.

                        Comment

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