1982 gs850l gas mileage

[doctorgonzo]

yes, on my 1100G

That is insane...
I'm hoping for with a perfectly tuned bike, I mean everything running perfectly, to get may 35 combo on my 1000. I'm only getting about 30 right now running a little rich.

[doctorgonzo]

I guess it's all driving habits. For me "taking it easy" is 75 on the interstate and shifting at 6000 around town. "running it hard" is 90 on the interstate and shifting at 7000 or 8000 or 9000.

[BassCliff]

Hello again Mr. rrheuhn,

Be sure to adjust your valves first, then tune the carbs. Why? Because that's the proper order. :-D Your engine uses the valves to inhale and exhale what it receives from the carbs. If you tune the carbs first while the engine isn't inhaling/exhaling properly or efficiently, then the carb tuning will be thrown off again once you adjust the valves. Get the motor to inhale and exhale effectively, then put the proper fuel/air mixture through.

My bike is running pretty good right now after my recent valve check, oil/filter change, new stator and r/r, but it could use a carb sync. I get anywhere from 31.5 mpg to 39.5 mpg depending on conditions, thrashing around town or taking a "sedate" longer trip (at a steady 70mph).

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[doctorgonzo]

Be very glad to get my carbs synced. One pipe is gold and the other 3 are blue, plus my idle wanders once the bike warms up, so I know they are out of sync. I've had a morgan carbtune sitting in the wrapper for over a month now, I've just been too busy adjusting valves, replacing stator, etc... to do it.

[rrhuehn]

BassCliff, I been reading your website and thank you for putting up such great information!

I do have a question regarding the valve adjustment. I see I need a shim tool http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...ve_shim_tools/
which I will order.

Now about setting clearance, do I need more shims to do this or how does that part work? I have a feeler gauge but I am not familiar with valve shims or how the clearence is actually set.

Lastly I assume once I crack the top of this motor open I need a new valve cover gasket as well correct?

Anything else I am missing or should know to attempt this job?

Thanks again for your help!

[doctorgonzo]

Consensus on here is use the zip tie method not the shim tool. zip tie is both easier AND cheaper.

[chiphead]

I just did a mileage check last night and got a little over 43 mpg with a 60/40 mix of two up back roads and single rider high speed highway blitzing.
And I'm sorry Dogma, but my 1100 DOES NOT sound like a sewing machine!\\/

[Steve]

And I'm sorry Dogma, but my 1100 DOES NOT sound like a sewing machine!\\/

Ahhh, maybe you should hear Dogma's sewing machine. It sounds like a well-tuned GS. :shock: :-\"

.

[chiphead]

Ahhh, maybe you should hear Dogma's sewing machine. It sounds like a well-tuned GS. :shock: :-\"

.

Yea, but how's it handle in the twisties?

[rrhuehn]

Consensus on here is use the zip tie method not the shim tool. zip tie is both easier AND cheaper.

Zip tie method? I will have to research that, haven't heard of it.

[ironsheik]

I do have a question regarding the valve adjustment. I see I need a shim tool http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...ve_shim_tools/
which I will order.

Now about setting clearance, do I need more shims to do this or how does that part work? I have a feeler gauge but I am not familiar with valve shims or how the clearence is actually set.

Lastly I assume once I crack the top of this motor open I need a new valve cover gasket as well correct?

Anything else I am missing or should know to attempt this job?

Thanks again for your help!

You'll need a new valve cover gasket. I used a rubber Realgasket and recommend these but remember only torque to 15 INCH/pounds, not FOOT/pounds. You will need a shim tool unless this ziptie method works... I'm not familiar with that...

You can go two ways with the adjustment job. You can order a nice set from Z1 Enterprises for $100 which includes just about any shim you could need and do the job in an afternoon OR you could open up the top and check your clearances first. You might get away with swapping a couple of shims from valve to valve but it probably won't get them all done. Then you'll need to order the individual shims you've decided you need and wait to get the adjustment done.

Now that I think about it, does the '82 still use shims? I guess all the 8v models do until '83 or so?

I opted to buy the kit since I've thrown my lot in with GS's and will probably have a lot of valve adjustments in my future. ALTHOUGH, my new GS1100e doesn't need shims... Hmmm... Maybe I should sell 'em? I AM still hoping for a nice '78 GS1000 some day...

Josh

PS: Read this - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...=105572&page=2
AND this - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=107491
and you'll have no problem getting this done. It's a bit of a mind-numbing experience the first time but just be patient and recheck everything.

PPS: I just got 41 MPG on a 70+ MPH highway jaunt. Have you sealed your airbox? Replaced airbox/carb rubber boots and o-rings?

[doctorgonzo]

Zip tie method? I will have to research that, haven't heard of it.

Look on basscliff's site. You open the valve, stick a zip tie in the spark plug hole between the valve and the valve seat, and the valve now can't close. When you rotate the cam the valve will stay open to change the shim. It can take a second to get the hang of it, but then it's actually easier than trying to get the shim tool to not pop off.

[Dogma]

Yea, but how's it handle in the twisties?

Well, since I apparently screwed up the installation of new fork seals last spring... not as great as last summer.

[rrhuehn]

You'll need a new valve cover gasket. I used a rubber Realgasket and recommend these but remember only torque to 15 INCH/pounds, not FOOT/pounds. You will need a shim tool unless this ziptie method works... I'm not familiar with that...

You can go two ways with the adjustment job. You can order a nice set from Z1 Enterprises for $100 which includes just about any shim you could need and do the job in an afternoon OR you could open up the top and check your clearances first. You might get away with swapping a couple of shims from valve to valve but it probably won't get them all done. Then you'll need to order the individual shims you've decided you need and wait to get the adjustment done.

Now that I think about it, does the '82 still use shims? I guess all the 8v models do until '83 or so?

I opted to buy the kit since I've thrown my lot in with GS's and will probably have a lot of valve adjustments in my future. ALTHOUGH, my new GS1100e doesn't need shims... Hmmm... Maybe I should sell 'em? I AM still hoping for a nice '78 GS1000 some day...

Josh

PS: Read this - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...=105572&page=2
AND this - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=107491
and you'll have no problem getting this done. It's a bit of a mind-numbing experience the first time but just be patient and recheck everything.

PPS: I just got 41 MPG on a 70+ MPH highway jaunt. Have you sealed your airbox? Replaced airbox/carb rubber boots and o-rings?

Mine is DOHC so I should not have shims then correct?

I have not replaced any boots, the ones to the motor from the carbs look good as new. The airbox boots are not as good shape but I have not replaced them. Far as sealign it up, you mean the new tape as on BassCliffs page? No have not done that either.

[doctorgonzo]

Well, since I apparently screwed up the installation of new fork seals last spring... not as great as last summer.

I'm getting my first taste of them in the past few days. Finally got the crappy old tires replaced with the sport demons. Got about 200 miles on them now, so leaning a little further every day. I plan to keep going over til I hear that sound of the footpeg scrape. I ride with some guys on modern sport bikes on occasion, so they challenge me for sure.