Oh Sh*t - Now I Have To Split The Cases

[jadesystem]

I woud say very,very,very few people ever ever get into the case......
say maybe 5% of the people on this GS website. I'm I wrong guys ???

[waterman]

What if you have been in two or more? I had to replace a secondary bevel gear in one and have replaced the case sealant in another due to excess gas in oil left by previous owner. It really isn't anymore difficult than pulling head.

[Suzuki_Don]

What if you have been in two or more? I had to replace a secondary bevel gear in one and have replaced the case sealant in another due to excess gas in oil left by previous owner. It really isn't anymore difficult than pulling head.

I'll take your word for it WATERMAN. I'll give it a go this weekend if I get time. I have to pull down the clutch side cover and assembly and also the generator side as well. Do you suggest I pull the rotor off the end of the crank before I split the cases or can it stay on for the whole procedure? And I guess it is best to replace all seals while the motor is apart. What sealant is used where the outside of the seals fit into the aluminium cases, both for gearbox shafts and crankshaft? Cheers. Don.

[waterman]

I didn't pull the rotor, it came apart with it intact. Remember, I did this on a plain bearing 650 not a roller bearing 550. I would think roller bearings would not tend to leak as badly since the lower oil pressure.

As for the where shafts enter and exit cases, most had pinned sealed bearings that simply stop the flow of oil. The crankshaft has a hard rubber seal behind rotor, on mine, it went in dry. Just make sure as you are reassembling to rotate internals to be sure they are not binding or catching. Without pistons and head, parts should easily turn with very little resistance.

[Suzuki_Don]

Thanks WATERMAN. I will understand more when I get the cases apart. I took the clutch cover, pressure plate, clutch plates and centre hub out this afternoon. It took me a while to work out how to remove the 32mm nut that holds the centre hub on the mainshaft without the hub rotating. Eventually worked it out and got that big nut off. Will attempt to do more tomorrow. Might take some pics as well. Will report back later.

[waterman]

Just realized that I didn't know what I was talking about. After checking my garage, came to understanding that I don't have as many shafts coming out of crankcase as 550--No chain drive! Quick look at 550 manual reveals a seal or two that mine doesn't. Since your going to expense of rebuilding, if reasonable, I would replace just for peace of mind.

Yes that 32mm nut is fun, I just used an impact gun to spin it off. Can be more fun to install trying to hold clutch basket tight. Likewise, not sure if 550 uses a couple metric allen bolts in front behind oil filter. These were particularly tough. Used a longish T wrench with short cheater to get enough torque to break it free. Word of advice, draw picture where each bolt goes and record length of bolt with diagram. It is real easy to screw up where the go.

[Suzuki_Don]

How Do I Remove The Rotor

As above. How do I remove the generator rotor from the end of the crankshaft. I have removed the bolt that holds the rotor onto the end of the crankshaft and the rotor appears to have a female thread inside it for a puller to be fitted. Is the rotor on a taper on the crankshaft? Is it on a keyway? How do I get the bloody thing off without the factory puller? HELP!!!!!!!!

[mcloud]

The loctite actually does come labeled as the color. Blue is semi permanent (you MIGHT need to take this apart in the future) and red is permanent (This is for keeps, like a weld, never meant to come apart again). It's like gasket stuff that comes a "utra grey", "black" etc... "Blue Loctite" really is the the part name.

Permatex uses the same color coding for their products,

[bwringer]

As above. How do I remove the generator rotor from the end of the crankshaft. I have removed the bolt that holds the rotor onto the end of the crankshaft and the rotor appears to have a female thread inside it for a puller to be fitted. Is the rotor on a taper on the crankshaft? Is it on a keyway? How do I get the bloody thing off without the factory puller? HELP!!!!!!!!

You don't need to remove the rotor to disassemble the engine.

Also, maybe you mentioned this earlier, but exactly which GS model are you working on? There are many important differences in the way you pull the rotor.

[Suzuki_Don]

You don't need to remove the rotor to disassemble the engine.

Also, maybe you mentioned this earlier, but exactly which GS model are you working on? There are many important differences in the way you pull the rotor.

Brian the model is a '77 GS550B. Just pulling the motor to pieces to wash out the crankcases of grinding residue to fit 650 top end.

I was going to pull the rotor so I could fit a new crankshaft seal on the generator side when I put the cases back together.

Cheers. Don

[Suzuki_Don]

Does anyone know how to remove the rotor from the end of the crankshaft taper on a 1977 GS550B motor.