GS850G, a few questions.

[Anonymous]

I have a gs850g this bike sat for ten years I am now the owner and I want to get this up and running.

1.I have to sync the carbs I just use the air screws to do this. Out is lean right ? Do i really need a mercury sync kit? CAn you rent those?
2.Fuse box cover. I don't have one could someone tell me the placement and type of fuses.
3.Last question. My bike is a shaftie and I need a new rear tire being a cheap bastard I would like to do this myself. Ive never played with the rear tire on a bike i don't know much about it.
Any help would be appreciated, its getting warm in massachusetts
and I want a real summer with a real bike.

ps

[KrazyKarl02]

Questions for your questions

Ok one thing at a time. Anyone wants to correct me please do, I am no expert and I generally learn the hard way....
Why are you needing to sync the carbs? Have you disassembled and cleaned them (you should if they have been set up for 10 years), if you have completly disassembled then synching should help, if not there probably is no need. Next to synch the carbs hook a mercury stick (preferably 4, one for each cylinder) to the port on the intake of the headed, it is blocked with an allen headed bolt.
Here is a question, does your bike have vacuum or mechanical carbs (don't know? I think 79 and previous have mechanical and 80 and later have vacuum) If you have mechanical you must remove the 3 screw on the top of each carb to take the top cover off, the adjustment for synching each car is found on top there, the flat head screw that is backed up with a nut. If you have vacuum the synching screws are between each carb in the throttle linkage with a similar flat headed screw backed up by a nut. In this case there are only 3 synching screws, and you just try to match carbs next to each other (i.e. 1 to 2, then 2 to 3, then 3 to 4). The idle mixture screws can be adjusted by running the bike at idle with clean plugs for about 20 minutes and then pulling each plug and checking for a rich or lean appearance. It may also be a good idea to place a fan in front of your GS during this as they are air cooled!

Fuses, don't remember, is your bike just a straight G, not a GL or GK might be different order....

The tire I am not sure I changed a rear end once and I know if you unbolt the differential of the bike (chrome colored) to where the axle comes down (black), then pull the axle bolt that goes through the wheel you can take the entire thing out and then probably take it to the shop, oh yeah you have to take the brake caliper off too.

Hope that helps

[Anonymous]

The carbs are vacuum they are cleaned/rebuilt. With the tire comes the whole issue of alignment. which seems a bit tricky. The bike is a gs850g not gk gl
p

[lhanscom]

Alignment with a shafty shouldn't be an issue, and it's not really adjustable. You may have to raise the bike a bit to get clearance under the rear fender to get the rear wheel out. Put the bike in gear, take out the axel, and wiggle the wheel out, it's real easy. Buy the mercury stix, it's worth it. There are screw on the throttle linkage to adjust them. If you're going to mount your own tires, buy the right tools, bead breaker and 3 good tire irons. Mounting your own tires is a pain in the A$$. My local shop, if I buy the tires thru them the mounting is free, and the tires are maybe a couple dollars more then mail order. Well worth it, I changed my rear tire the first time, and will hopefully never do it again.

[focus frenzy]

syncing the carbs adjust the opening of the carbs, you want all four of the carbs to be opened the same, the manometer allows you to see the vacume being developed in each intake so you can adjust them to match, this helps with the idle, smoothness of running, and overall performance.

the order of the fuses from top to bottom is= 10 amp, 10 amp, 10 amp, 15 amp, 10 amp
the first one is the headlight and turn signal fuse
the second is for brake lights, turnsignal control module, horns
the third powers the ignition
the forth is the main fuse and the forth is a accesory fuse that sends power to the screw terminal at the bottom of the fuse box.

put the bike on the center stand, it makes it alot easyer if you put a 2x4 board under the center stand to get more clearance.
there is a round pin hole on the swing arm that matches a tab with a hole in it on the rear frame loop that the passenger pegs mount to, remove the shock top mount nuts and take the shock tops off their mounting studs, this will allow you to raise the swing arm up to put a pin through the alighned holes, a factory pin/ phillips bit from the factory tool kit is for this purpose, with the swing arm rased and held up it makes it very easy to remove the caliper and pull the axle shaft out, this also gives you clearance to pull the wheel out.

[Anonymous]

If you have the repair manual for your bike it outlines all the steps to removing that rear wheel. The only problem i found with removing the rear wheel on the 850 is putting the shocks back on. I had a little trouble getting the left on while the right was on and vice versa. Hey Leon, Is there a trick to that?

I almost stripped the top mounting bolts that the shocks are mounted onto. Being part of the frame that would be a BIG problem

[Anonymous]

Struts'n stuff

I know what you mean about stripping the upper strut screws. Came close to that myself. Should have removed top and bottom.
Thanks for the help everyone.

p.s.