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Which is a better manual Clymer or Haynes

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    #16
    Cute!

    That's very clever, Tomm!!\\/
    1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

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      #17
      Originally posted by tomm View Post
      Instructions below:

      The Mishkinish Modulator works with the Frammis Valve to limit saddle time. The two components should be inspected and / or replaced whenever the motorcycle is running perfectly, or every 11.26 miles, whichever occurs first.

      WARNING: Do not attempt this procedure unless: 1) It is either a Saturday or a Sunday. 2) The temperature is between 65 and 80 degress F, and 3) the weather is either sunny or mostly sunny.

      These parts are located in the transmission between the 3rd and 4th driven gears.
      Haynes Manual: Some minor dissassembly required.
      Clymer Manual: Follow the directions in the 24 8x10 glossy photographs with the circles and arrows on the front of each one telling what each one is all about.
      Suzuki Manual: Unless you are experienced, refer this maintenance to your authorized Suzuki Dealer.

      Haynes Manual: Remove the left side cover, right side cover, clutch, oil pump, starter motor, flywheel, drive sprocket, oil pan, crankshaft and rear headlight.
      Clymer Manual: Follow the directions in the 24 8x10 glossy photographs with the circles and arrows on the front of each one telling what each one is all about.
      Suzuki Manual: Unless you are experienced, refer this maintenance to your authorized Suzuki Dealer.

      Haynes Manual: Remove the thrust washer. It is called a thrust washer because the spring behind it will thrust it across the garage and under whatever is hardest for you to move.
      Clymer Manual: Follow the directions in the 24 8x10 glossy photographs with the circles and arrows on the front of each one telling what each one is all about.
      Suzuki Manual: Unless you are experienced, refer this maintenance to your authorized Suzuki Dealer.

      Remove the Mishkinish Modulator and Frammis Valve for inspection:
      Haynes: Special tool ALDFJAL7343KLDLAL-ALDJFLKAD required.
      Clymer: Special tool required, but you can easily make one using a rock, some paper, and a pair of scissors.
      Suzuki Manual: Unless you are experienced, refer this maintenance to your authorized Suzuki Dealer.

      Inspect the Mishkinish Modulator and Frammis Valve for abnomal wear according the following limits. Repair or replace as needed:
      Haynes: Between 0.003 inches and 10.4 mm.
      Clymer: 14.2 volts at 5000 RPM.
      Suzuki Manual: Unless you are experienced, refer this maintenance to your authorized Suzuki Dealer.

      Re-assemble the engine in the reverse order.
      Haynes: Lubricate all fasteners liberally. Torque to values on page 47 of 40 later in this manual.
      Clymer: Use red Loctite on all fasteners. See your authorized Suzuki dealer for the correct torque values.
      Suzuki Manual: Unless you are experienced, refer this maintenance to your authorized Suzuki Dealer.

      Wonder if BassCliff would want to add this to his Web Page???
      great song!

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        #18
        Originally posted by tomm View Post
        Instructions below:

        The Mishkinish Modulator works with the Frammis Valve to limit saddle time. The two components should be inspected and / or replaced whenever the motorcycle is running perfectly, or every 11.26 miles, whichever occurs first.
        My bike is running perfectly, how long do I have to inspect/replace those before my bike runs like sh1t? \\/

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          #19
          hardest part of my 3 inch thick suzuki manula is finding stuff because of the 11 supplements one for the E, one for the G, one for the S, one for the GL, etc...

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            #20
            I'll throw in my $.02

            A manual that would adequately detail every step to every proceedure with enough color illustrations to make it idiot proof would be 4 feet thick and cost $1000.

            I've used the 'crappy' Haynes manual for 3 years, and it has the necessary information to do any job IF I HAVE ADEQUATE BACKGROUND KNOWLEDGE of what I'm are trying to do. The reason so many think all manuals 'suck' is because they don't do any homework gathering the necessary knowldege to use the manual properly. They expect the manual to fill all those gaps after they've already started.

            Read books, search the WEB, figure out not just the steps to take, but the reasons for those steps. An hour of research can save 10 hours of frustration.

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              #21
              buy 'em online in pdf form then print what you need.
              I thought it was kind of a rip off until I started working on a 1980 TT250. 30 bux for a printed manual or 7 for a pdf suzuki manual off ebay. All I needed was specifications and adjustment regs.

              Got what I wanted, printed it and don't worry about getting it all nasty.

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