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I've been spending last month trying to this bike on the road. Picked it up cheap, but it's been more of a project than I thought. I like tinkering with it, but it's in my in-law's garage 25mi away 
. My wife and I share a car right now, so I REALLY want to get this thing on the road!
As background ... my first problem was that I couldn't get it above about 5K rpm. It would run up and then act like it was starving for fuel and drop to 2K. Cleaned through the carbs 3 times. The PO had put in all new jets (stock sizes as far as I could tell) so everything was pretty clean. Ended up that the intake boots were leaking so I replaced those and the o-rings. After that it was better, but still wouldn't go above about 8K rpm. Just finished adjusting the valves, but I ended up needing one more shim (#2 IN is still below spec).
Now it's running up to redline pretty well, though it still bogs down some once it's above 6K. My biggest concern though is that I can't seem to get it to idle. It's almost like it has two idle spots ... one at about 2K, and one at about 4K :?. If I rev it up to 5-6K for a second or two it will drop down and settle in at about 2K-ish and run for a minute or two, but then it will for no apparent reason climb up to 4K where it will sit forever. I messed with the idle screw at both spots and it seems to change idle at 2K, but not much when it's at 4K. However if I get it down in the 2K range and try adjusting the idle down below 2K, it just drops right off and dies. So it's like I'm stuck at 2K or 4K.
From reading a lot of posts on here it seems like "idle hunting" is a sign of a vacuum leak. But this afternoon I sprayed starter fluid (how I found the intake leak) all over the intakes and carb and nothing changed. Could this be caused by the one valve still being out of spec (gotta run to the shop and get another shim tomorrow so I can fix)? Or is maybe because the carbs need sync'd? What's weird is that before I adjusted the valves it would idle beautifully around 1.1-1.3K.
Oh, and I did mess around with the idle screws after adjusting the valves too. Started at 2 turns out and then backed them off until revs quit climbing (~2.75 turns out). Plugs still looked a little whitish (screws were ~1.75 out before), but I only had time to run it for 2-3 min after adjusting idle screws. And I had to keep babying it to keep the revs from running up to the 4K.
. My wife and I share a car right now, so I REALLY want to get this thing on the road!As background ... my first problem was that I couldn't get it above about 5K rpm. It would run up and then act like it was starving for fuel and drop to 2K. Cleaned through the carbs 3 times. The PO had put in all new jets (stock sizes as far as I could tell) so everything was pretty clean. Ended up that the intake boots were leaking so I replaced those and the o-rings. After that it was better, but still wouldn't go above about 8K rpm. Just finished adjusting the valves, but I ended up needing one more shim (#2 IN is still below spec).
Now it's running up to redline pretty well, though it still bogs down some once it's above 6K. My biggest concern though is that I can't seem to get it to idle. It's almost like it has two idle spots ... one at about 2K, and one at about 4K :?. If I rev it up to 5-6K for a second or two it will drop down and settle in at about 2K-ish and run for a minute or two, but then it will for no apparent reason climb up to 4K where it will sit forever. I messed with the idle screw at both spots and it seems to change idle at 2K, but not much when it's at 4K. However if I get it down in the 2K range and try adjusting the idle down below 2K, it just drops right off and dies. So it's like I'm stuck at 2K or 4K.
From reading a lot of posts on here it seems like "idle hunting" is a sign of a vacuum leak. But this afternoon I sprayed starter fluid (how I found the intake leak) all over the intakes and carb and nothing changed. Could this be caused by the one valve still being out of spec (gotta run to the shop and get another shim tomorrow so I can fix)? Or is maybe because the carbs need sync'd? What's weird is that before I adjusted the valves it would idle beautifully around 1.1-1.3K.
Oh, and I did mess around with the idle screws after adjusting the valves too. Started at 2 turns out and then backed them off until revs quit climbing (~2.75 turns out). Plugs still looked a little whitish (screws were ~1.75 out before), but I only had time to run it for 2-3 min after adjusting idle screws. And I had to keep babying it to keep the revs from running up to the 4K.
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