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Turn Signals: I'm new to electrical diagnosis

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    Turn Signals: I'm new to electrical diagnosis

    I’ve got a ’79 GS850 with some turn signal issues I was hoping you all could give me some insight on.

    I am new to electrical diagnosis but I get the basic ideas: how to use an ohm meter, voltmeter, etc. I also already have the colored schematic from Bass Cliff’s website- very handy by the way.

    However, I am having trouble with the following:

    • Left turn signal doesn’t blink. Does that mean flasher is bad?
    • Right turn signal doesn’t light up on instrument indicator, nor in rear (bike is currently without front signals though wiring harness is still present)
    • I pressed right turn signal switch while testing at wiring harness to turn signal control unit and there was continuity. But I don’t know where to go from there.


    Little more history:

    Right turn signal functioned intermittently for a couple days then stopped working altogether. During that time, if I remember correctly the flasher seamed to work for the left turn signal. On a side note, I don’t think self canceling setup ever worked. Could there also be an issue with my Turn signal control unit?



    Thank you in advance for all those who take the time help me sort this out.

    #2
    Hee Haw Howdy!

    Hi Mr. justanother54321,

    It's always a good idea to clean all of the electrical and ground connections on these old bikes, from the headlight bucket to the tail light. Henh henh, you said, "I am new..."! Here is your very own mega-welcome! \\/

    Dear fellow GS rider,


    Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!

    Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the
    carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.

    These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus,
    Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
    ***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************

    Carburetor maintenance:

    Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:

    Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:

    You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
    And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
    http://cycleorings.com
    Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:

    ***********************************
    Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

    These common issues are:

    1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
    2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
    3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
    4. Carb/airbox boots
    5. Airbox sealing
    6. Air filter sealing
    7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
    8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
    9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
    10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
    ***************************************
    OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

    I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
    http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
    http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
    http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
    http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
    http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
    http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

    Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

    http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
    http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
    http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
    ***************End Quote**********************
    Additional parts/info links:

    GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
    New electrical parts:
    http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
    Aftermarket Motorsport Electrics parts for motorcycles, dirtbikes, atvs, motosport vehicles manufactured and distributed by Rick's Motorsport Electrics


    For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):
    http://www.realgaskets.com
    The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
    http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
    Carolina Cycle
    http://www.carolinacycle.com
    Ron Ayers Motorsports
    http://www.ronayers.com
    MR Cycles
    http://www.mrcycles.com
    Moto Grid
    http://www.motogrid.com
    If all else fails, try this:
    http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
    Used bike buying checklists:

    http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
    Lots of good info/pictures here:
    http://www.suzukicycles.org


    Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

    Thank you for your indulgence,

    BassCliff
    (The unofficial GSR greeter)

    Last edited by Guest; 05-21-2008, 07:46 PM.

    Comment


      #3
      The early turn signal control modules were problems. Best bet is to convert to manual signals.
      All of the signals need to be hooked up for them to work properly
      Last edited by Guest; 05-21-2008, 08:06 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        Sorry for your turn signal woes, electrical gremlins can be tough. I rarely have much to add to the great technical advice available from others, but starting with the basics...are your sure you have good bulbs in all sockets? When I started on my resto. I had to replace about 8-10 bulbs including those in the cluster.

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks for the info. I'll start by checking my bulbs.

          However, does anyone know how I could test the turn signal control unit? Or how I can remove it from the equation altogether and setup something else? Any articles out there on turn signal circuit upgrades?

          Again any info is much appreciated.

          Also, thanks BassCliff I'm downloading the service manual from your web page.

          Comment

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