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FLoat Pin Removal

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    #16
    Rest the float tower on a socket & use an AUTOMATIC center punch (One of the spring loaded ones!) to knock the pin loose. Works like a charm EVERY time. Ray.

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      #17
      Wish I had read these posts before I rebuilt mine. I ended up using a screwdriver and a hammer. Got the pin out but busted a tower. Thank you JBWeld. These bikes are great "Learn-as-you-go" lessonmakers.

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        #18
        automatic punch

        Hi Ray

        thanks - i saw on on the ebay - will buy that.

        in the mean time will try the painful manual process
        Last edited by Guest; 05-26-2008, 04:05 AM.

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          #19
          I'm about to rebuild the carbs on the 750T. 18 years sitting. There's one post busted off already. Yay.

          Thanks for the help guys.

          Hooray for the search engine!:-D

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            #20
            Float pin removal

            I use a pair of duck billed pliers. I can get the edge of the jaw on the pin and the other jaw on the tower. They usually pop right out. If not try soaking the the pin with penetrating oil (liquid wrench) for 30 minutes or so.

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              #21
              Originally posted by johnbtrask View Post
              I use a pair of duck billed pliers. I can get the edge of the jaw on the pin and the other jaw on the tower. They usually pop right out. If not try soaking the the pin with penetrating oil (liquid wrench) for 30 minutes or so.
              Using the tower for leverage, as you suggest, is the ONLY way I've ever busted one.8-[
              1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

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                #22
                So far, I have had good luck with channel locks and side cutters. The float pin is just a bit longer than the width of the towers, so I use the channel locks to press the end of the pin flush with the tower. That gives just enough room at the head end to grab with the side cutters and pull the pin out.

                .
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                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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                  #23
                  Not too tight!

                  The only ones I've ever had trouble with were the ones that I didn't install in the first place. Some people seem to think they're going to fall out and go rolling down the road!!
                  1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

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                    #24
                    I soak them in PB Blaster for a couple of hours and tap them (gently) with a hammer and a flattened nail. Haven't broke a post yet.




                    Knock on wood.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                      #25
                      well...

                      got all the pin out with some issues and disasters..

                      Carb 1 : Broke the post when trying to take it off using the autopunch...
                      Carb 2 : had to cut the pin and then punch them out. No issues have couple of spare pins
                      Carb 3 : A lot of tapping and pulling, it came off
                      Carb 4 : punched it out with ease.

                      now to fix that post. will see if i can put a brass cylinder and use loctite metal epoxy...worse case use the Carb 1 from my old one.

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