Cam Chain noise

[Anonymous]

The Bike.
1985 GS550L import 14,000 miles 16valve (GSX550E engine)stood for over 2 years.
The Problem.
the bike starts, runs ok plenty of power, but very loud clatter from centreish of cylinder head, reguardless of rpm ,think its cam chain. there is a spring loaded adjuster knob at the back/centre of the cyclinders, turning it one way makes it louder other way quiter.
Any Ideas

[redliner1973]

Sounds like you need to remove it and see it if is sticking. :twisted:

[Anonymous]

i have the same problem with my 79 gs 425e i have been told by lots of bikey peaple that this is a common thing with older gs models unless the chain really is lound and excessivly noisey it really is not a problem until then i have lived with this for quite a while. i have taken the cam adjuster off cleaned and stipped it down but it does not cure the noise the only way is to fit new a new chain and followersone tip here when you have strtipped the cam adjuster down and refitted it occasionly turn the knurled knob to stop it reseazing good biking sharp

[Anonymous]

The chain shouldn?t give you any problems, unless the bike has done MANY miles in the past. The problem is in the tensionerguide and propably the front guide too. They wear down with miles and the compound on them is usually hard rubber that gets very hard after a few years. Replace them both and the noise will disappear. A noicy chain with slack will wear down itself and the sprockets due to wiplash effect every time you increase/ dicrease the throttles, and that will do even more damage to your personal economy.

[Jethro]

How do you replace these rubber guides? Do I need to pull the barrels off, or just the head? Where can I get them- the dealer? Does the cam cahin need to be removed to do it?

[Hap Call]

How do you replace these rubber guides? Do I need to pull the barrels off, or just the head? Where can I get them- the dealer? Does the cam cahin need to be removed to do it?

You have to remove the head. The cam chain and barrels stay in place. The hard part is pulling them out because the frame and coils can get in the way.

Hap

[Don Lobacz]

It is possible from your description that the spring for the knob is loose by a turn or 2 (I just fixed a GS650 that had this problem). There should be a fairly strong snap to the knob when it is released. Tighten the spring by spinning it (in 1 turn increments) and re-hooking it.

[Anonymous]

On the 1100-1150 you must lift the cylinder to reach the bolt that fits it. On my last 750 -83 You must split the enginecases since it is fastened there. On the 550 I dont know. However, the front guide is usually very easy to replace, just remove the outlet camshaft. And do not forget that the automatic tensioner on these bikes are, too say the least, weak. Thats why many rebuild them to become manually.

[Hap Call]

On the 1100-1150 you must lift the cylinder to reach the bolt that fits it. On my last 750 -83 You must split the enginecases since it is fastened there. On the 550 I dont know. However, the front guide is usually very easy to replace, just remove the outlet camshaft. And do not forget that the automatic tensioner on these bikes are, too say the least, weak. Thats why many rebuild them to become manually.

I may be mistaken, but I believe you can pull the Intake cam, pivot the rear tension pad forward, use a long extension, reach in and unbolt the bolt that secures the rear tension pad. I have never done it that way (normally, if I am in there I have the block off) but I think it can be done. My greatest fear would be if I dropped the bolt into the case...that would suck!

Hap

[brs127s]

If you pull the cam shafts out, you should be able to move the chain far enough that you can visibly inspect the guide and tensioner. If they have really deep grooves wore in them, then they are shot. They should have some grooving, but not very deep. Before you tear anthing apart, I would give Don's suggestion a try. It requires less work and may alieviate the problem.

If you try it, and it doesn't work, then try removing the cam shafts and looking at the guide and tensioner(don't forget to lock the adjuster before removeing the cams). If you determine that they need to be replaced, I would be weary of trying to remove the tensionser without removing the head and cylinders. As Hap said, it would really suck to drop the bolt down into the crankcase.

[Anonymous]

I think Monkey has disappeared but I'll say something anyway.

If you can turn your tensioner forward to make the noise go away something is worn out. I'd say it is the springs in the tensioner. When my tensioner died revving the engine would kick it out, then I'd have to reach down and turn it forward. I believe all of the E tensioners are the same if you go looking for one.

Steve

[Anonymous]

Cam Chain Help

Thanks for the help i will let you know how i go on