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    #16
    Anyone????

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      #17
      3rd time is the charm

      Having pulled the carb on a bike that sat stored inproperly for 5 years, out doors, next to a tree, 3 times and finally taking every piece of it apart, cleaning it, pulling the float valves and cleaning them in detail with a dental scraper. I was able to get the bike to start. It was worth every second.

      Have you tried a spray of Starting Fluid to see if she will even turn over and run for a few seconds. I did that and established that she had the ability. I know it's not a kind thing to do to a bike, but, well, I had to know.

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        #18
        yes, when i put gas in the motor it will run.

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          #19
          So the plugs are completely dry? No gas at all? Doesn't make sense if the carbs are properly set up as you say. Did you blow on the vent lines for the carbs - helps force gas up the carb passages. Plugs in the pilot jet hole? Sorry but I'm at a loss on what to suggest.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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            #20
            yes, plugs are dry. I'll try blowin air in the vent to force gas up there. I agree with you, there's just no explaination as to why there's no gas getting there.

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              #21
              have you tried kicking it yet?


              usually doesn't help, but it always makes me feel better...

              unless I kick it too hard, then I'm even more frustrated because I'm in pain at that point also.

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                #22
                I'm not quite at that point yet. If or when I give up, I'll just part the whole thing out. Shame to do considering the condition of the bike and having a clear title.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by northwoods View Post
                  I'm not quite at that point yet. If or when I give up, I'll just part the whole thing out. Shame to do considering the condition of the bike and having a clear title.

                  Don't part it out man. Just give it a little time, and with a little bit of trial and effort you'll have it going.

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                    #24
                    Yeah I suppose. Oh well, I guess I'll take the carbs out for the umpteenth time tomorrow. I tell ya' what, if anyone wants any tips or tricks to taking carbs off of a 81' 550L, give me a hollar. I can almost do it with my eyes closed now....sheeesh this is getting old.

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                      #25
                      Wondering if maybe you have the butterfly's all jacked up and opened too far. They should only be cracked a very slight amount at idle. The choke needs to be out and the throttle closed in order to start the bike. Also, you still have the rubber plugs in the pilot circuit right?
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                        #26
                        OK, once you have it all assembled and the problem persists, do the following test, put a little fuel in a spray bottle, take the aircleaners off so you can access all the carbs, carefully lift the slide on carb #1 with a something soft like a thin piece of wood with a sharp point, spray 2 squirts of fuel deep into the the throat preferably beyond the slide, while holding the trottle fully open. Release the slide, open choke fully, keep throttle closed and try to start, if it fires do not touch the throttle at all. Try this on each carb just to check whether it will run if fuel from each carb gets to it. If this works give all 4 carbs a squirt or two and try starting then. This will prove beyond doubt that your spark and timing is OK and not messing you around.
                        As Nessism said also check that your throttle is not already being held open by the idle adjuster or the cable adjuster.
                        Here is a schematic that may help
                        Last edited by Guest; 05-26-2008, 09:57 AM.

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                          #27
                          Yes, as I was layin in bed last night I realized that my throttle cable is keeping the butterflies jacked open a lot. I'm going to pull the throttle cable off the bracket and see if it will start.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by northwoods View Post
                            Well after going back to Basscliff's site and looking at the carb rebuild series, I see that I forgot to clean the holes on the choke pickup tube and the passages. I'm wondering if this is the problem seeing that the rest of the carbs were pretty gummed up. I guess I'll have to take them off and clean the parts I missed, fun fun fun!!!!
                            Sounds like you're getting an education there North I don't know what sort of dip Berrymans is but I can tell you with the experience of rebuilding a lot of carbs, that, no matter what sort of cleaner I've used, I never rely on it. Make sure each and every passage is clear either with compressed air (and observing it coming out) and/or a small wire inserted through the passage. Always check ALL the adjustments (and always use good tech info!). Never trust the look of a diaphragm, unless you can look very closely......better to assemble as required, and apply vacuum to observe operation etc (or if cheap enough, change 'em....and then test!).

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                              #29
                              Rookie Thought...

                              I understand where you are at this moment. I had one float full of gas and its' chamber had gas vapor in it when I pulled the carb. What it came down to was pulling the valves from the float and cleaning them. I was not sure how they came out at first, I pulled with a plyers and could not get them, but I knew I had clean out the whole flow area of the fuel. In the process I put a compressor nozzle on the fuel intake of the carb - having pulled the hose off. I hit it with a blast of air and both of the valves flew off. I found that I had to take the screen off and clean that, and the needle valves that are on the other end of the valve and scrub at those. I soaked them in carb cleaner the scratched at them with a metal brush and a dental pick pulling old gasoline from the corners of the valve. Assembled and, well, it started right up and does every time.

                              Perhaps that might be a spot to look?

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                                #30
                                OK, you have 'cleaned' the carbs, apparently several times. :shock:

                                How long have you left the carbs in the dip? For a bike that has been stored in conditions like yours, I would leave each carb body (that has been completely stripped) in the dip overnight. When you take it out, rinse with warm water, use copper wire strands, carb spray and compressed air to assure that ALL passages are completely clean.

                                Now it is time to re-assemble the carbs, with new o-rings and gaskets. O-rings can be purchased from www.cycleorings.com. Also be sure to get new o-rings for the intake tubes. Then go through all the adjustments and sync procedures and you should be good to go.

                                .
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