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    A little charging help

    82 850. I took a ride after a charge yesterday. Havent had to charge it in a while but after sitting for a couple of days, I charged it and it was fine after. I waited 5 min, stopped and then started back up no problem. I took a 45 min ride and then stopped for gas. When i went to start up it went womp, womp, womp,.... dead. My friend had to come with cables and jumped my bike and when I got home after the 45 min ride, shut it off and no crank whatsoever, nothing. Today I charged my battery to test the stator that BassCliff provided. The volts at idle were 11.30. and the volts at 4000RPM were 12.70. Yeah, a charging problem. The ohms measurement for all three wires was 1.0 ohms. The wires were extremely hot to touch. The middle connector in the pic was very hot. and when I touched the bundle wires going to the R/R, that was very warm as well. There was no connection at all when testing the resisitance. When the wires were disconnected and the bike was running, everything was nice and cool, not even warm. I have a suzuki R/R too. (the small one). New stator and R/R maybe?? Thanks in advance.

    http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...g/P1010166.jpg
    http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...g/P1010167.jpg
    http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...g/P1010169.jpg
    http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...g/P1010170.jpg

    #2
    Cooking with electrons

    Hi Mr. Johnny K,

    A bad r/r can cause your stator to run too hot, melting the insulation on the wires and turning the current inducing coils of wires into inert lumps of copper. Here's a stator I took out of my bike one time:



    At this point I replaced both the stator and the r/r. I also ended up replacing my battery about a week later, but that was probably just due to the age of the battery and not anything related to the other components. Now I've got a whole new charging system. Hopefully I'll be good to go for another ten or twenty years.

    Thank you for your indulgence,

    BassCliff
    Last edited by Guest; 05-27-2008, 11:18 AM.

    Comment


      #3
      I havent taken the cover off yet to look at the stator because I changed my oil 200 miles ago, and I think once you take it off, you should change your oil? Well if I do take the cover off and some of the coils look like that in the pic, then order a new one? I will also order the honda RR you guys keep talking about if I have to order a new stator. Let me know, thanks.

      Comment


        #4
        Cooking with electrons

        Hi Mr. Johnny K,

        You will lose only a few spoonfuls of oil by taking the stator cover off. But you should have a new gasket handy. There's no need to drain your oil to replace the stator.

        What are your stator output numbers?

        Thank you for your indulgence,

        BassCliff
        Last edited by Guest; 05-26-2008, 08:56 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          I dont have a new gasket, but put all new gaskets for the covers and top-end about 800 miles ago. Would I still need a new gasket? At idle 11.30V, at 4000RPM 12.70V. The ohms were 1.0 for all three wires. When the bike was at 4000RPM it was reading around 70ohms. No connection at all when tested the resistance.

          Comment


            #6
            Hi Mr. Johnny K,

            Chances are the gasket will get mangled when you disassemble. Check the Stator Papers fault finding chart and my website articles to gain understanding of the AC voltage (not DC) output of your stator. Ensure your stator is bad before you spend $100-$140 on a new one.

            Thank you for your indulgence,

            BassCliff

            Comment


              #7
              Ok thanks.

              Comment


                #8
                Your not alone

                I am fixing mine right now, be sure and replace all connections that look like they got hot with spade terminals, for that matter the more the better. Quite a few of mine were cooked and the wires got hot also.
                Ground the r/r, it helped but my stator is weak so I am going for the whole package.
                Kirk

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yeah, one of my wires when pulling apart the male/female connector, pulled right out of the connector and then trying to pull apart the connector that was attached to the other one was kinda brittle. The wires got extremely hot when connected when pulled apart to do the AC test, all of them including the wires to the R/R were cool. When I connect all the wires back on and start the bike and the wires get extremely hot again, doesn't that mean the stator or the R/R is bad?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The battery sounds bad. Do the Stator Papers.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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