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Johnny K
charging continued..
I had the three stator wires unhooked from the night before doing the stator test and started the bike up with no problem. The battery is still down in volts around 11 at idle and 12 at 4000. I connected the three wires and started the bike and after about 2 min around 2000 the three wires and R/R were getting warm fast. I disconnected the wires and after 2 min of 2000 the three wires and R/R were cool. I took the cover off and here are some pics of the stator. Still confused about the whole charging system but let me know, thanks.
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SqDancerLynn1
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Kirk
Its hard to tell
It looks like some of the coating is off.
I guess you can check for resistance between each of the three outputs to the cover. Its supposed to be 0 ohms, but I am not sure if oil contributes to this test.
If you look at the question just asked about charging problems,and the R/R confusion with the stator papers. I was in the same boat until I figured out current flow direction. My old R/R was ok. My stator is really weak. One leg to ground at 5k rpm 27 VAC.
I may do better with a wind turbine off the front fender. (Bad joke)
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bakalorz
Originally posted by Kirk View PostIt looks like some of the coating is off.
I guess you can check for resistance between each of the three outputs to the cover. Its supposed to be 0 ohms, but I am not sure if oil contributes to this test.
If you look at the question just asked about charging problems,and the R/R confusion with the stator papers. I was in the same boat until I figured out current flow direction. My old R/R was ok. My stator is really weak. One leg to ground at 5k rpm 27 VAC.
I may do better with a wind turbine off the front fender. (Bad joke)
The oil doesn't matter. (unless there are enough metal particles in the oil that the stator is the least of your worries)8-[
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BassCliff
Please RTFM
Read all the above, and your manual. It's about all you need to know.
Basically, if the AC output of your stator is less than 60 or 70 volts AC, then it's bad and needs replacement. Your pictures are fuzzy and I can't tell if the insulation is melted. If it is melted then the windings are shorted and the output will be nil.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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Johnny K
I charge the battery for 1hour and 1/2. At idle it was 12.25V. When at 4000 it was at 13.21. The resistance for ohms between the 3 wires was 1.0 ohms. The output of the stator between the 3 wires was around 71.1V AC. When the 3 stator wires are connected, they become very hot along with the R/R in a couple of minutes at 4000RPM. When the wires are disconnected, the wires and R/R are cool to touch. This is where Im at. Thanks.
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BassCliff
Cooking with electrons
Hi Mr. Johnny K,
Your numbers look good. Have you cleaned all the electrical connections? Have you connected the ground wire from the r/r directly to the negative terminal of the battery? I scrubbed all of my connections with a small wire brush, even if they looked clean. It made a big difference. There is a ground strap from your negative battery terminal to the back of the crankcase. It's a bear to get to, but clean that as well, both the circle connectors and the surfaces where they connect. Keep us informed.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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Johnny K
I did clean and put dialectric grease on the stator wires, but the other wires that are on with a screw/bolt to the housing and so forth have not been cleaned. I will be able to do that tomorrow.
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Johnny K
I cleaned all connections and put dialectic grease on them. Started the bike up to check battery voltage and in 5 min, the R/R wire housing where it plugs into the other connector was smoking. I dont have a pic, but it is the middle connector out of the three that is located near the fuse box. I havent checked the R/R because I thought you have to have the stator wires connected. If it does, then my wires are going to smoke. Not sure though. Thanks.
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