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Valve Tappet Adjustment Tools Required?

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    Valve Tappet Adjustment Tools Required?

    I need to check and possibly adjust the valve clearance on my '82 750E and it doesn't have shims but will I need/be required to use the nice handy dandy valve adjustment tool or will a wrench and driver fit and work?

    #2
    If you go to BassCliff's website, you will find a page for Valve Adjustment for 16 Valve Motors.

    The only special tool necessary would be the feeler gauge, it's handy to have two of them to be able to adjust both valves at the same time. Another handy tool would be the adjuster. It is pictured in BassCliff's tutorial, but is basically a square-drive screw (available at any hardware store) that is driven into the end of a wooden dowel (also available at the hardware store).

    .
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      #3
      Tool

      There's a cheap little tool you can order from Suzuki that makes it really easy. The OEM number is 09917-14910 and it will cost about $5.75...(It's worth about 75 cents but I'm glad I bought it.)
      1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

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        #4
        Sweet thanks, especially on that part number chuckycheese

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          #5
          Here's what the one I have looks like:

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            #6
            You bet!

            Originally posted by Killer2600 View Post
            Sweet thanks, especially on that part number chuckycheese
            You're very welcome!:-D The one pictured in RJ's post is it (although that partial part number is for something else).
            1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

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              #7
              Originally posted by chuckycheese View Post
              You're very welcome!:-D The one pictured in RJ's post is it (although that partial part number is for something else).
              The part number is probably for the gasket underneath the tool...

              I would say that two feeler gauges are necessary, not optional. Otherwise, you end up twisting the forked follower and the clearances are not correct in the end. You also want a good metric box end wrench for loosening the locknuts, they seem to work themselves tighter over time and can be a bugger to get loose. Without a close fitting wrench you risk rounding off the nut in the process and then you're stuffed.

              Make sure you set your clearances to the loose side of the spec, I always set my 1100E at 0.005" (I think it is) because it is safer than too tight. Loose is a bit noisy, tight is burned valves...

              Mark

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                #8
                Yep, that's a gasket number, sorry bout that. I'm getting ready to do mine before the 2008 Miss Fabulous WNY Rally.

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